London
Green Belt Way
[Home]
Stage 1
- Hampton Court Palace to
Staines-upon-Thames Pier
(13 miles)
Start: Grid
Reference TQ 15618 68480 Post Code KT8
9AU StreetMap.
ROUTE
DESCRIPTION
The start is
inside the main entrance to Hampton Court Palace. The leg is mainly on the
Thames Path
and flat. It crosses the Thames at two points, Hampton Court and Walton Bridges.
Diverts on road, through Lower
Halliford,
Old Shepperton and then again along the Thames, past, Shepperton, Chertsey and
Penton Hook Locks to finish at Staines Pier and behind Staines Town Hall.
Go
out through the gate and turn left to a pelican crossing. Cross over the road
and turn left over
Hampton Court Bridge. Immediately after crossing the bridge turn right
along River Bank staying on the right-hand side and
soon veer right onto a path, signed Thames Path, next to the river. After 200
yards stay straight
on past the war memorial and along a pedestrian area called Barge
Walk, soon passing Molesey Lock to
your
right.
The route follows the Thames Path for the next 4.7 miles to Walton Bridge
Hampton Court Palace
is magnificent on the banks of the River Thames. The
Knights Hospitaller of St
John of Jerusalem
had a farm on the site from 1236. They were a religious order formed in the late
11th Century to protect pilgrims on visits to
King Henry VII
and his wife Elizabeth visited in 1503. Two years later Sir Giles Daubeney, the
Lord Chamberlain, took out a lease on the property but died in 1508. A new lease
was granted to Thomas Wolsey by the Knights Hospitaller in 1515.
Thomas Wolsey
(1473 -
1530), son of an
King Henry
VIII
was fond of Wolsey and appointed him Bishop of Lincoln in 1514 and Archbishop of
York in the same year. In September 1515 he was promoted to Cardinal by Pope Leo
X, and on Christmas Eve the same year was made Lord Chancellor by the king.
As
Henry became
heir and ascended to the throne on the death of his father Henry VII on 21st
April 1509. One of his father's
last wishes was for Henry to take his older brother's
widow Catherine as his queen. Shortly after his father's
death he married Catherine on 11th June 1509, thirteen days before
his coronation. He stayed married (but not faithful) to Catherine for 18 years.
Catherine was getting older and although had gave him a daughter in
Princess Mary (later Queen Mary), she had not secured his main aim of a son as
heir. Henry believed that without a male heir the Tudor dynasty may not
continue.
Henry by now
had fallen for
Anne Boleyn
(c1501
-
1536), a lady in waiting to Catherine and the younger sister of Mary Boleyn, one
of his previous mistresses. With the annulment he could legally marry Anne and
hopefully produce a male heir. Wolsey and Anne were at odds. She saw him as an
obstacle to her becoming queen and he could see the many implications if this
royal love affair was allowed to continue.
In 1529 after
a further effort by Wolsey to obtain an annulment also resulted in failure, Anne
became angry and blamed Wolsey. He was stripped of his office of Lord
Chancellor. In a last desperate attempt to buy his way back into royal favour,
he presented most of his property including
Here's a taster
for Hampton Court Palace, a video by Historic Royal Palaces entitled
Hampton Court Palace: an
introduction. I'll
cover more of the history of the place below.
With Wolsey
dead, Anne became the most powerful member at court. When William Warham
(Archbishop of Canterbury) died in 1532, Anne had her family chaplain
Thomas Cranmer
(1489 -
1556) appointed to the vacant position. During this time the Pope's
influence over the Church in
Anne gave
birth to Princess Elizabeth (later
Elizabeth I)
on 7th September 1533. Their marriage was not a smooth one and Anne
failed to produce the male heir which Henry wished for. His affairs and
flirtations with ladies of the court would irritate Anne and cause much friction
between them. Eventually his attention was more focused on Jane Seymour, one of
Anne's
ladies in waiting. Anne's
behaviour did not help things and she made many enemies. Henry's
chief minister Thomas Cromwell used the king's
new affection for Jane as a catalyst to have Anne investigated. Although nothing
was proved, Anne was eventually convicted of adultery, incest with her brother
George and treason. She was executed at the Tower on 19th May 1536.
The following day Henry married Jane Seymour.
Henry's
third wife
Jane Seymour
(1508 -
1537) gave birth to Edward Tudor (later
King Edward VI)
at
Anne of Cleves
(1515 -
1557) was to become Henry's
fourth wife. She was a German noble and this would prove to be an important ally
against
Henry's
was 49 years old when he married his fifth wife, 19 years old
Catherine Howard
(1521 -
1542) on 28th July 1540 in the Chapel Royal at
Henry married
his sixth and final wife
Katherine Parr
(1512 -
1548) in the Queen's
Closet, next to the Chapel Royal, at the palace on 12th July 1543.
She helped to reconcile Henry with his first two daughters, Mary and Elizabeth,
which resulted in them being put back in line after Edward, though they were
still deemed illegitimate. Henry died on 28th January 1547 at
Between 1529
and 1540 Henry remodeled and enlarged Wolsey's
palace. All of his
six wives
spent time there.
Although a lot
of the original
The original
Royal Tennis Court
dates was built c1529. This was rebuilt by Charles I in 1625 and is the oldest
'Real
Tennis Court'
in the world still in use today. The present one the original external wall next
to the viewing gallery. According to the link above:
'Anne Boleyn was gambling on a game of tennis when she was arrested to be taken to the Tower of London. She even complained that she couldn't collect her winnings!'
In the Lower
Orangey, Andrea Mantegna's
Triumphs of Caesar
has been on display since shortly after Charles I acquired them in 1629. They
are now part of the
Royal Collection.
From 1689,
under
William & Mary,
Christopher Wren was employed to redesign much of the palace including the King's
and Queen's
apartments (see photo below). They were completed in 1700. Unfortunately, Mary
died in 1694 and was never able to enjoy them. William died in 1702 only a
couple of years after their completion.
Wren's
Banqueting House, overlooks the River Thames on the south side of the grounds.
It was commissioned by William III and completed in 1700. The main room is above
the kitchens and was decorated by Italian painter
Antonio Verrio
(1636 -
1707), who is also responsible for many of the wall and ceiling paintings in the
palace. The
ceiling
depicts Minerva as the Goddess of Wisdom surrounded by figures from art and
science. The wall paintings show the loves of Jupiter. Alexander Pope once said
of the painter:
"On
painted ceilings you devoutly stare
Where sprawl the saints of Verrio and Laguerre"
In the grounds
are many ornamental gardens, with much of the layout dating back to Henry. Many
direction signs done in good taste show the way to them all.
The
Maze,
planted in c1700, covers a third of an acre and has half a mile of paths. It is
where Harris, one of Jerome K. Jerome's
"Three
Men in a Boat",
got hopelessly lost along with 20 followers and a keeper. The excerpt from the
book is below, it maybe a bit long, but it's
funny and I hope you may enjoy it, and it's
where we eventually finish the whole walk.
"Harris
asked me if I'd
ever been in the maze at
'We'll just go in here, so that you can say you've been, but it's very simple. It's absurd to call it a maze. You keep on taking the first turning to the right. We'll just walk round for ten minutes, and then go and get some lunch.'
They met some
people soon after they had got inside, who said they had been there for
three-quarters of an hour, and had had about enough of it. Harris told them they
could follow him, if they liked; he was just going in, and then should turn
round and come out again. They said it was very kind of him, and fell behind,
and followed.
They picked up
various other people who wanted to get it over, as they went along, until they
had absorbed all the persons in the maze. People who had given up all hopes of
ever getting either in or out, or of ever seeing their home and friends again,
plucked up courage at the sight of Harris and his party, and joined the
procession, blessing him. Harris said he should judge there must have been
twenty people, following him, in all; and one woman with a baby, who had been
there all the morning, insisted on taking his arm, for fear of losing him.
Harris kept on
turning to the right, but it seemed a long way, and his cousin said he supposed
it was a very big maze.
'Oh,
one of the largest in Europe,'
said Harris.
'Yes, it must be,' replied the cousin, 'because we've walked a good two miles already.'
Harris began
to think it rather strange himself, but he held on until, at last, they passed
the half of a penny bun on the ground that Harris's
cousin swore he had noticed there seven minutes ago. Harris said:
'Oh,
impossible!'
but the woman with the baby said,
'Not
at all,'
as she herself had taken it from the child, and thrown it down there, just
before she met Harris. She also added that she wished she never had met Harris,
and expressed an opinion that he was an impostor. That made Harris mad, and he
produced his map, and explained his theory.
'The map may be all right enough,' said one of the party, 'if you know whereabouts in it we are now.'
Harris didn't
know, and suggested that the best thing to do would be to go back to the
entrance, and begin again. For the beginning again part of it there was not much
enthusiasm; but with regard to the advisability of going back to the entrance
there was complete unanimity, and so they turned, and trailed after Harris
again, in the opposite direction. About ten minutes more passed, and then they
found themselves in the centre.
Harris thought
at first of pretending that that was what he had been aiming at; but the crowd
looked dangerous, and he decided to treat it as an accident.
Anyhow, they
had got something to start from then. They did know where they were, and the map
was once more consulted, and the thing seemed simpler than ever, and off they
started for the third time.
And three
minutes later they were back in the centre again.
After that,
they simply couldn't
get anywhere else. Whatever way they turned brought them back to the middle. It
became so regular at length, that some of the people stopped there, and waited
for the others to take a walk round, and come back to them. Harris drew out his
map again, after a while, but the sight of it only infuriated the mob, and they
told him to go and curl his hair with it. Harris said that he couldn't
help feeling that, to a certain extent, he had become unpopular.
They all got
crazy at last, and sang out for the keeper, and the man came and climbed up the
ladder outside, and shouted out directions to them. But all their heads were, by
this time, in such a confused whirl that they were incapable of grasping
anything, and so the man told them to stop where they were, and he would come to
them. They huddled together, and waited; and he climbed down, and came in.
He was a young
keeper, as luck would have it, and new to the business; and when he got in, he
couldn't
find them, and he wandered about, trying to get to them, and then HE got lost.
They caught sight of him, every now and then, rushing about the other side of
the hedge, and he would see them, and rush to get to them, and they would wait
there for about five minutes, and then he would reappear again in exactly the
same spot, and ask them where they had been.
They had to
wait till one of the old keepers came back from his dinner before they got out.
Harris said he thought it was a very fine maze, so far as he was a judge; and we agreed that we would try to get George to go into it, on our way back."
The Great Vine,
planted in 1768 by Capability Brown, is the oldest known living vine in the
world and still produces up to 700lbs (320 kg) of grapes each year. They are
harvested in August and are sold in the palace shops.
From the reign
of George III in 1760 the palace ceased to be a royal residence.
Under
Queen Victoria
(1810 -
1901) a lot of restoration was carried out and she opened the palace to the
public in 1838.
On 31st
March 1986 (Easter Monday) a fire caused much damage to the King's
Apartments. This resulted in another program of restoration to the palace and
some extras. It included the recreation of the
The Palace
nowadays is run by the Historical Royal
Palaces, whose headquarters are based at
Not all of
Hampton Court Palace is open to the public. However, you can watch a video,
entitled Secrets of
Hampton Court Palace, which does show some of these places.
Just outside
the grounds of the Palace there are many other places to see.
Christopher Wren
lived close to the main entrance; his
house
is the second on the left, past the roundabout and facing The Green. The great
architect died in his sleep on 25th February 1723 at the age of
90. Michael
Faraday's
House is just two doors past that of Wren's. He was born near Elephant & Castle
in
To the north
of the palace is
Bushy Park,
a royal hunting ground during Tudor times and now the second largest Royal Park
covering an area of almost 1,100 acres. Its history can be traced back over
4,000 years. Within its walls herds of deer stroll freely, keeping the grass in
check and the tree branches above a certain height. The central avenue of
chestnut trees was laid out by Wren, with the
Diana Fountain
as its centerpiece. This dissects the park in two and was created to provide a
fitting approach to the palace. The Woodland Gardens with the Totem Pole and
Canadian Glade which remember Upper Lodge as a home to Canadian Convalescents
during World War I, the artificial
Longford River
built in 1639 by Charles I to provide water for the palace, the 18th
century Brewhouse which provided ale for all the workers, the Stockyard
Buildings, Bushy House now home to the National Physical Laboratories, the
numerous cricket clubs and playing fields, the huge children's
playground and the quaint Police Station of the
'Royal
Park's
Constabulary'
at Lion Gate all blend together with the wide open spaces to make a wonderful
place for people to visit and enjoy for free.
On the western
edge of the park near
During
World War I some of the lands in the
park were used as allotments in
'the
Dig for Victory',
and between the wars it hosted a camp for undernourished children.
During
World War 2 the park became the site
of a large US base, later renamed
Camp Griffiss
in memory of Lieutenant Townsend Griffiss who was killed when the aircraft he
was travelling in was mistakenly shot down by the Royal Air Force on 15th
February 1942 and was the first US Airman to die in the line of duty in Europe.
General Dwight Eisenhower made the park
Supreme Headquarters Allied Expeditionary Force (SHAEF) - the center for
planning
Operation Overlord,
the 1944 D-Day Invasion of France.
Immediately
after the war the park came up as a site for a
The rules for
modern day game of Hockey are
thought to have been developed by
Teddington Cricket Club
in Bushy Park in about 1871. Some members went on to set up
Teddington Hockey Club,
which claims to be the world's
oldest.
When crossing
Hampton Court Bridge,
opened by the Prince of Wales in 1933, was designed by Lutyens. It is concrete,
but so as to blend with the Palace, is faced with narrow red bricks and great
quantities of Portland stone for dressings and balustrades
To the left,
after crossing the bridge and turning right along the river, is what till
recently was the Streets of London Pub. This is now a
restaurant
and originally built by Thomas Tagg in 1887 as The Thames Hotel. A few yards
later, just before joining the Thames Path is the
East Molesey War Memorial.
Across the river many expensive boats are moored at the
Thames Motor Yacht Club.
On joining the
towpath
Molesey Lock
is to the right. It was built in 1815. In 1865 fish ladders were added to the
weir and in 1871 boat rollers were added to the lock. The footbridge across the
weir is used by residents of
Ash Island.
Around 1850 there was a pub on the island, called the Angler's
Retreat. Within two years the pub was moved to the larger neighbouring island
(later and still called Tagg's
Care must be
taken as soon to the left is the busy boat house of
Molesey Boat Club.
It was founded in 1866 and is famous for the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Gold
winners, the Searle Brothers and their crying cox, Gary Herbert. Their win is
commemorated by a large decorated wooden board attached to the front of the
boathouse. To read more about the club's
achievements, visit their entry at
Wikipedia.
Across the
river just after
Thousands of
people live on or next to the Thames, the exact number I wouldn't like to guess,
but I'm sure it's enough to populate a small city. One of the first river
communities passed is that of Tagg's
Fred John
Westcott
was born into a working-class family in Exeter in 1866. He had ambitions to be
an acrobat and went to
By 1903 Karno
had acquired enough money to buy his houseboat. He prospered greatly by forming
more and more troupes and his fame and fortune grew. In 1912 no one with enough
money was interested and he was persuaded to take over the lease on the island.
He also decided to build the biggest and grandest houseboat on the river. In
1913 it was completed and moored at the island. He named it the
Unfortunately,
in 1914 war soon broke out in
After a few
unsuccessful attempts at rebranding and relaunching the resort, the island came
into the ownership of
AC Cars
of Thames Ditton in 1941. They used it to make munitions during
World War II
(1939 -
1945) and a road bridge was built from the Middlesex bank. After the war AC Cars
continued to use the factory to manufacture three wheeled automobiles and
novelty train carriages until 1965 when the bridge was declared unsafe.
In the 1960s
Tagg's
Island became a popular haunt for
'Hippies'
Many music acts played here in the late 1950a and the 1960. These included,
Acker Bilk, Ken Coyler, Long John Baldry, Rod Stewart, George Melly, The Rolling
Stones and Jeff Beck.
Pink Floyd
played here on 16th March 1968.
'The
Billyboy gang fight',
a scene from the movie
'A
Clockwork Orange'
(1971), was filmed in the Palm Court Ballroom at the Karsino. The film was
produced and directed by Stanley Kubrick and adopted from a book of the same
name by Anthony Burgess,
Soon afterwards the Karsino was eventually demolished and the island went back to a
wildlife sanctuary with a few island dwellings and surrounded by houseboats.
The day before
the Karsino was demolished a band of old music hall stars held a party and
salvaged many items, including parts of the stage, to remember this great resort
and the enjoyment it had given to so many. One attendant was Jack Melville who
was celebrating his 88th birthday that day and had joined Karno's
company in 1904. He had performed on this stage many times. He proposed a toast
to
Karno
-
'the
man who put more laughs into
In 1980 one of
the residents, Gerald Braban, formed Taggs Island Limited in order to protect
and regenerate it. He funded a new road bridge from the Middlesex side and
constructed a lagoon in the centre. He lived on the island for 23 years and died
in 1993. A few years later the New Millennium Sundial was erected in
On 15th
February 2012, Taggs Island featured on the BBC's
'One
Show'.
To watch the relevant section of the programme visit the link at
YouTube.
Also, you may enjoy this silent film from 1924,
'Along
Father Thames to Shepperton'.
It starts at Kingston-Upon-Thames
and travels upstream past Hampton Court and Taggs Island to Old Shepperton.
In contrast to
the busy Tagg's
Island, the next island is Swan's
Nest Island or Duck Eyot. Aptly named, it is only inhabited by swans and a few
other birds.
After a short
distance along the towpath is
'THE
LITTLE RACE-COURSE at
Horses were
raced here from the early 18th Century to the last race held on 10th
October 1962. All that remains of the race-course is the four tall brick pillars
and black gates on Graburn Way which were once used to close off the road to
create a straight mile for the horses to race on
-
see on
Google
Street View.
'The
Hurst'
(see photo below) as it was called was also well known for many other sports
which were played here including cricket, bare-knuckle boxing, pistol duels,
golf, archery, rowing, ballooning and cockfighting.
Cricket
has been played here since the early 18th Century. One of the
earliest recorded includes
In 2004 a
tasteful memorial to this area's
history was built next to the river. It gives the history from over 6,000 years
ago until the present day. It records the first known name of the area as
'Herstegg'
(1249), this changed to
'Mousley
Hurst'
in the 18th Century. The present name
'
Across the
river is Hampton (settlement on the
bend of a river) clustered around its church, St Mary the Virgin. Hampton House
(aka Garrick's Villa) can be seen facing the river and is where actor
David Garrick
retired to in 1754. Garrick employed the Adam Brothers to improve the house on
two distinct phases (1775-6 and 1772-4). Capability Brown was consulted over the
grounds and suggested building the still existing, grotto-like tunnel under the
road joining the house to the riverside gardens. In 1755-6 the octagonal
Temple
was constructed to entertain visitors and as a tribute to Shakespeare, Garrick
commissioned Louis-Francois Roubiliac to make a statue of the Bard to be housed
in the
In 1758
Garrick was visited by some friends from
On the right
just before Hampton House sits the
The next
island is
Garrick's Ait.
It was once, like all other islands along this stretch of river, covered with
willows and osiers used for the local basket making industry. Although some
willows still remain, in the 1920s the island was divided up into plots and
developed as residences. There are now about 20 houses on the island and many
boats surrounding it.
Across the
river, immediately after Garrick's Ait is
Hampton Sailing Club.
It was built in 1962 on another island, Benn's Ait, and connected to the
riverbank by a hand operated chain ferry. Before they acquired the island, their
clubhouse was a boat moored on the Middlesex bank. For over 500 years a ferry
has carried passengers across the
Just past the
sailing club is the start of the
Hampton Waterworks. They were a
consequence of the Metropolis Water Act of 1852 which stated all water used for
human consumption must be filtered and also prohibited using water from the
tidal
The next
island is
Platts Eyot.
Like its neighbours, it was used to grow osiers and in the 1860s became known
for its boatbuilding, which still continues today. The island is part of the
River Thames Site of Metropolitan Importance for Nature Conservation and part of
it is listed as green belt. The current owners wish to develop the site, but
because of its status permission is almost impossible to attain.
There are many
old pictures and lots of history of the river at Molesey that can be viewed on
the
www.moleseyhistory.co.uk
website.
On passing
Platts Eyot the housing development of
The
concentration of islands in this part of the Thames is great and with shoring up
and being looked after they have all managed to survive intact, even when the
river is at its most ferocious.
The next
island passed is called
Grand Junction Island
after the water company who owned it. Today it has a few holiday homes and some
boats moored around it and is now owned by Thames Water. Soon after and shortly
before the end of the reservoir's wall is
Sunbury Court Island,
another river community with
25 private dwellings. The island is reached by a
footbridge from the Middlesex side and is named after the large mansion house
which overlooks it. Sunbury Court (see photo below) was built in 1723 by John
Witt. Subsequent residents included George Fermor, 2nd Earl of
Pomfret,
and Jack Needham, the Lord Kilmorey. In 1921 it was purchased
by the Salvation Army who turned it into a
conference centre
and it was here their first Army High Council was held in 1929. Today it is a
Grade 1 listed building, still owned by the Salvation Army and it is where they
elect their General each year.
Rivermead
Island
is only separated from Sunbury Court Island by a narrow channel. It is
uninhabited and joined to the north bank by two footbridges and a ford. It's
open to the public for everyone to enjoy. Up until 1980 there an open-air
swimming pool on the island. The
Sunbury Amateur Regatta,
established in 1876, is held on the river here in August each year.
After passing
the wall of the Molesey Reservoirs there is soon what looks like a mile post on
the left. This is the first of a number of coal and wine tax posts (or
"coal
posts")
that we will pass. Mostly they are white painted metal posts, but this one is
stone, marked with the City of London arms and
'14&15 VIC C146', a
reference to the Act of Parliament under which the tax was imposed.
Soon after the
wall of the reservoirs is an enclosed footpath going off to the left. This leads
Hurst Road (A3050) and a few yards to the right is the entrance to
Apps Court Farm.
The farm was once the site of a large manor house which owned most of the lands
in this area. The grounds of the farm extend down to the Thames Towpath and
continue for a few hundred yards after Sunbury Locks. Today, there's lots going
on at Apps Court Farm, including,
camping,
car-boot sales,
events, etc.. and I'll come back to write about the history of Apps Court below.
In a further 300 yards Sunbury Locks are to the right. The original lock was built in 1812 with the newer, smaller lock added in 1925. There is also a Lock Keeper's Cottage on the towpath, next to the locks. The Old Lock Keeper's House is on the left just after the lock and beyond this is Sunbury Lock Cut Bridge which gives foot access to Sunbury Lock Ait (or island). The island existed before the widening if the lock cut and there was an older lock here. The island was previously known as Sunbury Church Ait.
According to the River Thames website:
"The Queen's Swan Uppers begin their annual journey "Royal Swan Upping" up the Thames from here, every July, recording the swan population. Sunbury Lock is mentioned in Jerome K. Jerome's book Three Men in a Boat. Visit at weekends during summer and you'll find a tea shop on the lockside. As it is inaccessible from the road it has become a haven for wildlife with swans ofter nesting. You can spot other birdlife such as Egyptian geese and you might even see the pipstrell, Britain's smallest bat".
Across the river from here is Lower Sunbury. This is a pleasant village with the oldest part spread out along Thames Street which runs parallel to the river. It was originally, just named Sunbury, but changed to Lower Sunbury to distinguish it from it's more modern part, Sunbury-on-Thames, which is actually set back a mile from the river.
Soon to the
left is
The Weir Hotel,
with its pleasant beer garden which looks out across the river to Sunbury Weir.
It's not the first pub on the route and it won't be the last. The
pub sign may not look
anything like its local weir, but it is tasteful and painted by a well-known
local artist. On the upstream side of the weir is
Wheatley's Ait.
Another island owned by the Environment Agency. It is joined to the north bank
of the river by both foot and road bridges. There are some works on the island
and there are plans to redevelop it and make a foot crossing of the river here.
Just past The
Weir Hotel is an interesting small house on the corner of two paths, and soon
after this, to the left is the recently built
Elmbridge Xcel Sports Hub.
This is an impressive facility with football pitches, a running track and a
pavilion. It is home to
Walton Casuals Football
Club.
and
Walton Athletic Club.
Immediately after this and set back from the river is Elmbridge Leisure Centre.
The leisure centre originally opened in 1976. It was rebuilt in 2006 and renamed
The Elmbridge Xcel Leisure Complex.
It was on the towpath here in 1995 where the first
Green Belt Relay
around London started. It was from organising this which encouraged me to
develop the London Green Belt Way long distance footpath, and why you are now
reading this.
Adjacent too,
and just above the towpath for a short distance is a grassy and slightly wooded
picnic area (4 miles
into the stage). Follow the path straight on through some trees to where it
opens out to give a great view of the river looking upstream. To the left of the
path is
Walton Rowing Club,
founded in 1927 and moved here in 1953. Its members have won many awards
including a gold medal at the Sydney Olympics in 2000 by
Steve Trapmore
in the men's eight. In 2008 at
The stretch of
the river from here to near Walton Bridge is known as
"The
Walton Mile" (see
photo).
It's mainly straight, it's wide and many regattas have been held here since the
18th Century.
For the next
half mile houses and water activity clubs line both sides of the Thames, only
broken twice to the left - firstly, by a recreation ground and later by a small
public park reached by climbing some steps. A large red brick house sits at the
upstream end of the park. This is
River House
and during the late 19th Century was home to composer
Sir Arthur Sullivan
(part of the famous duo Gilbert & Sullivan). An interview with the composer at
the house in 1897 can be read by following
the link.
Just behind
River House, and hidden from view from the towpath, is
Riverhouse Barn.
This 18th Century barn has been converted to an arts centre with a
"sensory garden" containing some interesting features. It is managed by The
Walton-on-Thames Community Arts Trust and is largely run by volunteers from the
local community. The strange looking sculptures you see from the towpath form
part of its gardens.
Shortly after
River House is
The Anglers,
a public house which dates from the 19th century and looks onto the
river. Across the river the houses form part of the River Ash Estate and behind
them is the
London Shepperton Holiday
Inn Hotel,
a
Swan Sanctuary
and the large expanse of
Shepperton Marina.
Just past the
Anglers and set back from the river is
The Swan, a Young's Pub with a
"secret beer garden" overlooking the river.
It dates from 1770 and gets its name from
"Swan
Upping"
a "swan marking" event which takes place in the third week of July each year. It
starts at Sunbury Lock on the Monday and proceeds up river to finish at Abingdon
on the Friday. I suppose the old pub has many stories to tell, but one of the
best is of American composer
Jerome Kern
(1885
-
1945). In 1909 he was visiting Walton with two friends and went into the
Swan Hotel for some food and refreshments. They stayed for many hours with
Jerome playing the hotel's piano. They were served by Eva
Leale (1891 - 1959)
the landlord's beautiful daughter and he fell in love with her. They married in
St Mary's Church at Walton the following year. He spent a lot of time at the pub
and wrote some of his songs there
-
a
blue plaque on the front
wall remembers his time here. During his lifetime he wrote almost 1,500 songs
and is arguably the father of American musical theatre. His songs including
"Ol'
Man River",
"Rock a Bye Baby",
"Smoke Gets in Your Eyes",
"Sunny"
and many
others which are still commonly sung today. The couple were happily married for
34 years and his wife Eve and their daughter were at his bedside when he died at
the age of 60 in New York, the city where he was also born. US President Ronald
Regan declared 27th January 1985, one hundred years after his birth,
to be Jerome Kern Day and it was celebrated throughout the country. A memorial
concert was also held in St Mary's Church to mark the occasion. Today on a wall
inside
The Swan
pub you can see a framed copy of Eva and Jerome's
marriage certificate.
A few yards to
the right, past the front of The Swan, and on the opposite side of Manor Road is
The Old Manor Inn.
To the left of the Inn is a gap leading to a tiny park with an
information board.
The board tells where the pub gets its name and by looking over the wall there
is a great view of the well-hidden
Old Manor House. It
dates from the 14th Century and the long timber-framed structure
still looks today as it did when it was built over 600 years ago. The house is
believed to have been a home of
John Bradshaw,
President of the court which sentenced Charles I
- he may have even signed the
king's death warrant in the house. It was once the Manor House of Walton Leigh,
and in the 19th Century fell on hard times when it was divided into
tenements and a number of poor families lived here. Today the Old Manor House is
Grade 1 listed.
It was restored by
Ronald Segal
who lived there up to his death on 23rd February 2008. He was an
anti-apartheid activist, and a writer. He founded the Penguin African Library
and was also Honorary Life President of The Walton Society.
Walton
is Anglo-Saxon in origin and is believed to mean 'farm of the Britons' or 'Saxon
settlement'. Even before the Romans and the Saxons were present, there was a
Celtic settlement here. The Anglo-Saxon word for the Celtic inhabitants who
lived here then is 'Wealas'.
Over the years
Walton had many large houses with surrounding estates. The largest on record was
Apps Court. It lay about a mile and
a half to the north east of Walton Village. The manor is mentioned as far back
as 675 AD at
British-History
Online
-
there are lots of mentions on here. A large house and was originally built in
1332 by the Lord of Apps. In 1602 it was bought by Francis Leigh who turned the
estate into a
Ashley House
was one of the most important houses at Walton. It was built between 1602 and
1605 for Lady Berkeley, wife of the 7th Lord Berkeley. The Jacobean
house was the first of its design to be built in England and stood for over 300
years. Its grounds extended to 440 acres and the main drive, an oak tree lined
"Grand Drive", ran through what is now the High Street to opposite WH Smith. The
house passed through a number of families including the 1st Earl of
Anglesey,
Christopher Villiers,
Benjamin Weston and Field Marshal
Richard Boyle,
2nd Viscount Shannon.
Sir Henry Fletcher
acquired the house in 1786 and it remained in Fletcher family until the 1860's
when it was sold to
David
Sassson.
When the last
Sassoon
died, without an heir, the house was demolished and the land broken up to make
way for a private housing development in the 1930s
In 1899
Cecil Hepworth
(1874
-
1953) opened a small film studio called Hepworth Picture Plays in Walton
on Hurst Grove. The studio produced many films, but closed down in 1923 due to
Hepworth becoming bankrupt.
In 1926 the studios were bought by Archibald Nettlefold who rebuilt and renamed
them Nettlefold Studios.
Productions
included
"Scrooge" (1951) with Alastair Sim. In 1955 the studios were taken over
by Sapphire Films and renamed
Walton Studios.
As well as making movies they also produced television series including 143
episodes of the hugely successful
"The
Adventures of Robin Hood"
(1955 - 59) with Richard Greene in the lead role and its catchy theme song which
was sung by children all over the country. You can listen to the song by
following the link to the website. The studios closed in 1961 and all that
remains is the old power generating house which was converted to a theatre in
1925 called The Playhouse. It is
still used as a theatre today by the
Walton & Weybridge Amateur
Operatic Society,
is available for rent and is on Hurst Grove just off Hepworth Way. Today the
theatre is named the Cecil Hepworth Playhouse after the early film pioneer.
Walton-on-Thames
has lots of other connections with television and cinema. Many of the scenes for
Monty Python's Flying
Circus
were shot around the town centre.
Actress and
singer
Julie Andrews
was born at Rodney House maternity home on
Tony Walton
(born Walton-on-Thames, 24th October 1934) developed a successful
career as a costume designer and won many awards including an Academy Award in
1980 for
"All
That Jazz"
and an Emmy for the 1985 TV version of
"Death of a Salesman". He has received
many Oscars and BAFTA nominations, and funnily enough, one for Mary Poppins in
1964. Julie and Tony remained married until 1967; they had a daughter, Emma
Walton born in
Other famous
people connected with Walton include,
Nick Lowe
singer and songwriter born here 24th March 1949. Current and previous
residents include, singer-songwriter Mick Hucknall and lead singer of band
Simply Red, snooker player Cliff Thorburn, ballroom dancer Camilla Dallerup and
former US President Herbert
Hoover.
Just past The
Playhouse on the junction of
New Zealand
Avenue
owes its name to Walton's connections with New Zealand during World War I.
Mount Felix,
a large mansion overlooking the Thames near Walton Bridge, had been rebuilt in
the middle of the 19th century by Sir Charles Barry for the 5th
Earl of Tankerville. However, it was taken over by the New Zealand War
Contingent Association in 1915 and converted to a hospital for
"The grounds
at Walton (which ran down to the
Over 27,000
New Zealanders were cared for here during the Great War. The people of Walton
took the young soldiers into their homes and their hearts, and in 1921 a plaque
was erected to remember them. In 1966
"THIS TABLET IS ERECTED AD 1921 BY THE INHABITANTS OF WALTON-UPON-THAMES TO
COMMEMORATE THEIR 27000 FELLOW SUBJECTS FROM THE DOMINION OF
Taken from
-
The
A brass plaque
was put up on the wall in the local St Mary's Church in 1921 to record their
stay at Walton and as a memorial to the seventeen of them who died here and are
buried in the graveyard. Another memorial can be seen in the middle of the car
park of Homebase, just off New Zealand Avenue, a Kowhat Tree given by the New
Zealand High Commission in 1970 was planted with a small
brass plaque next to it.
All that now
remains of Mount Felix is the
Clock Tower
on Bridge Close which has been converted to office use and the gate pillars on
Bridge Street at the junction of Hepworth Way.
St Mary's
Church
is a
Grade 1 listed building and stands at the highest point in Walton and only
a short walk from the river. The church has eight bells, the oldest cast in 1606
-
see links to
Bell Ringing
and
Church Tour.
It
has many monuments, including one to Field Marshall Viscount Shannon (who died
in 1740), and is one of the best works by Francois Roubiliac. It was
commissioned by his daughter Lady Middlesex. To the right of
Shannon Memorial is a
glass box containing a
Scold's Bridle
(see photo). The
original, stolen in 1965, was dated 1633 and came to the parish in 1723 from
Chester (or in some versions from a man called Chester who lost a fortune due to
women gossiping). It is inscribed:
"
To curb women's tongues which talk too idle"
There are brasses (dated 1587) dedicated to John Selwyn, once a keeper of the
Stevens was employed as a gardener at
Csarevitch Nicholas II of
Russia,
later to be the last Tsar, stayed with Prince and Princess Louis of Battenberg,
at Elm Grove in June
1894 on
a visit to meet his fiancee and future wife Princess Alexandra. On a visit to St
Mary's Church, Nicholas was reported to have been amused on seeing the
Scold's Bridle in the church. A few days later the couple moved on to Windsor to
stay with, Alexandra's grandmother, Queen Victoria
to attend a dinner in their
honour. You can read more about the visit at
Royal
Central.
Elm Grove
is just off the southern end of Walton High Street. This former home to the
Mountbatten family has gone through many uses, including a courthouse, local
council offices and a recreational facility. It is now a listed building and
belongs to Elmbridge Borough Council.
Walton and St
Mary's have also connections with the
Surrey Diggers (or
True Levellers
as they called themselves). This was a movement started in 1649 by
Gerrard Winstanley
two months after the execution of King Charles I. He was a cloth trader from
Lancashire whose business in
"When this universal law of equity rises up in every man and woman, then none shall lay claim to any creature and say, This is mine,
and that is yours. This is mywork, that is yours. But everyone shall put their hands to till the earth and
bring up cattle, and the blessing of the earth shall be common to all; when a man
hath need of any corn or cattle, take from the next storehouse he meets with.
There shall be no buying or selling, no fairs or markets, but the whole earth shall
be a common treasury for every man, for the earth is the Lord's...When a man hath eat, and drink, and clothes, he hath enough."
He earned a
following through his radical views, believing common land belonged to everyone
and thus everyone had a right to earn a livelihood from it. With people from
Walton and Cobham he set up a commune at St Georges Hill on 1st April
1649. They built places for their families to live and dug the land to plant
their crops. They were poor and at first thought harmless, so were left to their
own devices. It wasn't long before wealthy landowners and people in power
realised their threat. Those who felt threatened by the Diggers paid local thugs
to beat them up, destroy their crops and burn their houses. They and their
families were taken prisoner and locked up in St Mary's at Walton. They were
eventually released as there were no grounds to hold them. They moved to Cobham
and gained support from other corners of the country where communes were also
set up. However, they never stood a chance against the might of those in control
and within three years of starting they were quashed and became a part of
history.
Until recently
this was a part of
The
local council eventually agreed for a
memorial stone to "Gerrard
Winstanley a
True Leveller" to be erected on Cobbett's Hill just opposite Weybridge rail
station and on the fringes of St Georges Hill.
Some more
links to the Surrey Diggers are below.
Songs: The
Diggers Song (World
Turned Upside Down)
- follow the link to read the words and download different versions or click on
DICK GAUGHAN
to get his version of The Diggers Song'
courtesy of
Seedstar,
original lyrics by Leon Rosselson.
The
St Mary's
website is well worth a visit to read its tour of the church and the history
associated with it. The
British History Online
website contains a detailed early history of Walton-on-Thames.
In recent
years the centre of Walton-on-Thames (area between Hepworth Avenue, the High
Street and New Zealand Avenue) has been mostly redeveloped with the building of
a new centre called
"The
Heart".
It is an up-market shopping centre with many restaurants and flats above.
Continue along
the towpath, past the Anglers pub and through a parking area.
A
notice board
next to a wall on the left gives information on the local history of the area.
On the river next to it is
320 yards
after the Anglers stay right to cross a footbridge over the entrance of Walton
Marina.
The path to
the right leads past the back of the marina to Bridge Street and the western end
of Walton viaduct. On
crossing the footbridge,
over the boat entrance to
Walton Marina, look across the river to see the
entrance to Shepperton
Marina. Immediately over the footbridge is Walton Marina shop and on the river
next to it is a small pier with some boats for sale.
Stay straight
on and under Walton Bridge
(at 5 miles). Then for another 100 yards and with a small pier to your RHS, turn
left, signed Thames Path and through metal bollards. Turn left along a wide
pavement with a road to your RHS.
Just across
the road from where you turn left along the road is a
new cafe and some
toilets. Though you may have to pay to use the use the toilets.
The pavement
leads up, over the entrance to the road to Walton Marina, then on up to the
bridge. Then left, along the pavement, and over Walton Bridge.
Once over the
river, follow the pavement as it turns left into Walton Lane.
The 6th
Walton Bridge was opened on 22 July 2013. The previous bridge stayed in
place as a cycle and pedestrian path until shortly afterwards. Originally the
only crossing point was a ford a few hundred yards up river.
There was a
ferry at Walton from the 15th Century until the
first bridge was built here between
1748 and 1750. It was designed by William Etheridge and commissioned by Samuel
Dicker, a wealthy landowner and MP for
The
second bridge was a six arch brick
and stone structure built by James Paine in 1788.
It was painted by Turner in 1805 and the
original
painting can be seen at the Tate today. The bridge lasted for 73 years when in
August 1859 the two centre arches fell into the River. The collapse was thought
to be due to settlement of the central support pier and the account below
appeared in a local newspaper at the time.
'On Thursday
morning at half past five o'clock the bridge leading from Walton to Halliford,
Middlesex was observed to be cracking across the highway of the bridge over the
centre arch and the crack kept increasing so much as to allow parts to fall into
the River and so it remained dropping bit by bit until twelve o'clock when the
arch fell with a violent crash into the bed of the River. In a short time
afterwards the other arch fell in.....'
The
third bridge was built in 1862. It
designed by E.T. Murray and was made of iron and rested on brick and stone
piers. On the Walton side a brick viaduct was also built over the flood plain -
this still stands today. In 1940 the third bridge was damaged in a German air
raid. It remained opened to light traffic until 1953 when a fourth bridge was
built next to it on its downstream side. Cyclists and pedestrians continued to
use the older bridge until 1985 when it was eventually demolished.
The
fourth bridge was a temporary
measure and not pleasant to look at. It remained in use to traffic up to
December 1999 when a fifth bridge
was built upstream next to it in the position of the older bridges. This
explains why the road then went straight over the old viaduct and onto the new
bridge. Once again, the older bridge remained open to cyclists and pedestrians,
but once was just a temporary measure until the new
6th Walton Bridge was
completed.
In January
2011 Surrey County Council gave the go-ahead to build a new road bridge across
the Thames next to the two older Walton bridges. It was estimated to cost 32.3
million
pounds
and will be the first road bridge to be built over the river in 20 years
- the previous one was the QE2 Bridge at Dartford which opened in 1991.
The sixth
bridge was opened on 22nd July 2013. On YouTube you can watch a
video
of Walton Bridge being built in 3 minutes, plus another showing the
opening ceremony.
The two older, downstream, bridges have been demolished.
You can read
the whole history of Walton Bridge
at
Wikipedia,
and view photos of the different bridges, plus lots more, on the
Thames.me.uk
website.
On entering
Walton Lane stay on the pavement on the left-hand side, soon across the entrance
to Thames Meadow. The lane, for the next 420 yards, is one way until Dunally
Park.
Immediately
after Dunally Park are some desirable residences on the left with gardens onto
the
Directly
across Walton Lane is an 18th century weather-boarded house named
Dunally Cottage, and
according to a document dated 2004 from Spelthorne Borough Council it appears to
have also been once owned by Peacock:
"Dunally Cottage was originally a barn built in 1720 and Poet's Cottage was built in 1833 and both have weather boarded end elevation. Dunally Cottage and Poet's Cottage were two separate dwellings until Poet's Cottage was bought in 1985 from Steve Holley, Paul McCartney's drummer in "Wings" and combined with Dunally Cottage to create one dwelling...
"Mary Shelley (1797 - 1851) author of "Frankenstein" once lived in Dunally Cottage which was lent to her by Thomas Love Peacock circa 1820, before her husband died in 1822."
George Meredith,
novelist and poet, married Peacock's daughter
Mary Ellen
and they lived for a period at Vine Cottage, just across the green to the right
on Russell Road.
Halliford
(holy ford) got its name from a hermit, a holy man who lived here in Anglo-Saxon
times by the ford, and is said to have performed miracles. Legend has it that
the Romans, under Julius Caesar crossed the
Just past
Peacock House turn left onto a path across a small riverside park. On reaching
This short
stretch along Russell Road from the green to
Shepperton Cross
once had four pubs, now only one remains -
The Red Lion.
According to
British History Online
parts of the building dates back to the 17th century. The pub website
states:
"The oldest part of the pub lies back from the road and is now used as our
'Snug'. This was the building occupied by the first known licensee, Robert Reed,
between 1722 and 1730. In 1864, when the railway came to Shepperton, this little
riverside pub saw a roaring trade from people coming down from London at the
weekend to spend time on or near the River Thames. It was around this time that
the Shepperton & Halliford Regatta commenced and took place in front of the pub
largely down to the influence of Edward Rosewell the landlord at the time.
The pub expanded in the late 1950s to incorporate Eyot Cottage, which was home
to the Rosewell/Rixon boating business, which let boats and operated a ferry
from the 'shore' next to the Red Lion riverside garden."
It has beer
gardens on both sides of the road and the riverside beer garden has recently
been refurbished.
A few yards
further along on the right is
Halliford School
and opposite this is Gibbs Boatyard and just past it a small road to a private
car park.
On passing
Halliford School, to your RHS and a private road to a boatyard on your LHS, the
narrow pavement runs out and you can veer left to walk along the grass and
parallel to the road.
After 60 yards
cross over a lane and straight on along a worn grass path. (NB. There are small
Thames Path way-markers along here). The path soon becomes enclosed between
trees (now at 6 miles), When the path merges back alongside the road,
fork left to follow the
path over a small footbridge
and turn right down the wooden
ramp (the Brownies & Guides Hut away to your
left-hand side).
At the bottom,
turn left into the car park of Shepperton Cricket Club, then sharp left through
the car park (the cricket
pitch is to your RHS) and onto a footpath. Follow this wide path through a
wood to the river Then turn right with the river now to your LHS and trees to
your RHS.
This backwater of the
River Thames is peaceful and well hidden from the hustle and bustle of everyday
life. There is a timeless feel about it, and this makes it popular with film
companies. The route is an alternative and slightly longer version of the Thames
Path National Trail.
The path
eventually emerges into Manor Park car park. Go straight on through the vehicle
exit and turn left along the pavement (Church Road) and eventually into Old
Shepperton.
(Note:
You can also choose to follow the official route of the Thames Path. This
continues along
The village
signs on both sides of the road are a recent addition where the route enters
Old Shepperton. The old houses along
the winding road into the centre of village are well preserved. Two of them were
converted to a restaurant. First opening as the original Blubeckers in 1977,
later changing names to Edwinns, then Castello, and currently (2019) Shepperton
Wine Bar & Grill.
The name
Shepperton means
"shepherds' settlement" and this place is quite unique as it
can trace its origins back to over 5,000 years ago. In 1989 at Staines Road
Farm, just north of
Another
significant find at Laleham Road in Halliford was uncovered in 1950. This was a
simple pottery urn containing 360 coins cast in tin and bronze and a designed
derived from Greek coins of Marseilles. They are known as
"the
Sunbury Hoard",
are believed to have been buried around 100
- 50 BC and now in the Museum of
London.
At the time of the
Domesday Book
(1086), Shepperton was known as Scepertone, and was owned by Westminster Abbey.
Early Saxon cemeteries on the north of
Church Square
at Old Shepperton, soon passed on the left, is a prime example of village
survival. There has been a wooden church here since the 7th Century
and a stone one since the 12th Century. Although some of the
foundations of the older church are still thought to be in place, the current
church dates from 1614. The rectangular bell tower was added in the early 18th
Century. North of the church is the rectory, parts of which date from the 15th
Century. The excellent Queen Anne front was added around 1700. Like many
old building, stories of ghosts have emerged. In this case the ghost is said to
be
Erasmus,
15th Century Dutch renaissance scholar, a friend of
William Grocyn,
Rector of Shepperton from 1504 - 1513.
On the north
side of
St. Nicholas Church
is the solitary grave of Margaret Love Peacock (died 1826). She was the daughter
of Thomas Love Peacock and died when just three years old. Peacock wrote a poem
to his little daughter which he had inscribed on the
headstone
on the grave. The grave and headstone are well preserved. For historical
purposes it is classified as a Grade 2 listed building and although over 190
years old you can just about still read the poem.
'Long night succeeds thy little day
Oh blighted blossom can it be
That this grey stone and grassy clay
That this grey stone and grassy clay
That this grey stone and grassy clay
That spoke a mind beyond thy years
The song the dance by nature caught
The sunny smile the transient tears.
The symmetry of face and form
The age with light and life replete
The little heart so fondly warm
The voice so musically sweet.
Around the hearts that loved the cling
She leaving
with long and regret
The in promise
of thy spring.'
The grave, like many other parts of the river along here, is mentioned in Jerome K Jerome's "Three Men in a Boat".
"There is a tomb in Shepperton churchyard, however, with a poem on it, and I was nervous lest Harris should want to get out and fool round it. I saw him fix a longing eye on the landing-stage as we drew near it, so I managed, by an adroit movement, to jerk his cap into the water, and in the excitement of recovering that, and his indignation at my clumsiness, he forgot all about his beloved graves."
Two old pubs
stand on either end of the Square. Nell Gwynne is said to have lodged in the
Kings Head, and Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton to have visited the Anchor Hotel.
The square is well known for illegal bare-knuckled fights being held here in the
18th and 19th Centuries. Through the years many famous
people have lived (or stayed) in the village, including Charles Dickens, H G
Wells, Jerome K Jerome, Gilbert and Sullivan, Judy Garland, Richard Burton,
Elizabeth Taylor and Charlie Chaplin are just some of them. A
statement
in the entrance hall of The Anchor reads,
'Through these
Portals have passed
The Rich, the
famous. Prime Ministers, Statesmen, Politicians.
Notorious
Personages of dubious character, Wenches, Pugilists,
Visitors from
the Colonies (including the
Vagabonds,
Glamorous Artistes from the World of Motion Pictures, -
But the Most
Important of Them All is You!'
The Anchor Hotel
dates back over 400 years. It was a haunt of highwayman Dick Turpin. This may
explain why after one of his visits a pistol was found in the rafters inscribed
"Dick's Friend". It is also claimed to be the place where Richard Burton and
Elizabeth Taylor's romance first blossomed. They stayed here in 1964 whilst he
was filming
"Becket"
at the nearby
Shepperton Film Studios.
The hotel has also been used as the setting for many TV dramas.
Many famous
movies have been made at
Shepperton Studios
over the years and many of the actors have stayed in the two hotels in the
Square. It's a shame the hotels do not have a log of this as it would be
extensive. The studios are just a mile to the north, near the vast Queen Mary
Reservoir.
Opposite the
church on other side of the Square is the
Warren Lodge Hotel and is owned by
the same company as The Anchor Hotel. The hotel
website states:
"The Warren
Lodge Hotel started life as a private house and the oldest parts of the hotel
date from around 1700. However, the most historic feature of the Hotel is the
Mulberry Tree that dominates the garden. In the 16th Century,
Cardinal Wolsey, the then Lord Chancellor of England, rebuilt Hampton Court
Palace, which sits a few miles downstream from the Hotel. He ordered that
Mulberry Trees be planted along the Thames so that, in season, he could always
partake of his favourite fruit as he made his way up and down the river."
In 1964 the
hotel was bought by Douglas Gordon as his first business venture. It only had a
few rooms and a bar. He made a huge success of it and enlarged. Later he went on
to buy The Anchor Hotel and another, The Ship at Weybridge, to form Shepperton
Hotels Ltd. The Warren Lodge also has an extensive list of famous visitors. The
history section
of the hotel website lists a few and an
article, dated April 2018 from The Terence Rattigan Society (on page 4)
tells more about Douglas Gordon, his famous visitors and his life
- it's a great
read.
When I visited
the Warren Lodge Hotel, in the late 1990s there was a few music memorability
hanging on the walls, including Roger Daltry's gold disc for sales of
"Tommy".
The car park of the hotel was known as Ferry Square. There was a ferry here from the 14th century. In 1970 the square was handed over to the people of Shepperton by the Lord of the Manor for them to enjoy. The occasion is commemorated by a plaque on the wall of the car park.
Next to the
Warren Lodge is The King's Head. This was an old coaching inn and dates from the
15th Century. The stables have long gone and have been incorporated
into the pub. Again, the pub's
Facebook page lists some of the well-known visitors and even has a photo of
Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor leaving. The pub claims to be haunted, one
of the ghosts is said to be a headless monk from Chertsey Abbey. He gave up his
holy vows to live with a woman at Shepperton, but was beheaded for doing so by
his holy brothers.
In
Iain Sinclair's circumnavigation of
London in
"London
Orbital"
published in 2000 he sometimes visits
JG Ballard
(1930
-
2009) at Shepperton. The book is about a walk around
Follow the
main road through the village as far as
A field next
to
On reaching
the river turn right along the road. For the next mile we basically follow the
road, but there are opportunities to use a path next to the river.
Ferry Lane
gets its name from the
Shepperton to Weybridge
Ferry
at the end of the lane and next to the
Nauticalia Shop.
A ferry has crossed the
There are many
islands on the river, in this area, and it's behind some of these where the
River Wey and the Wey Navigation join the
The
Domesday Book of
1086 records a weir at Shepperton. The first lock was built of wood in 1813 and
was replaced by the current one in 1899. In
"Our
Mutual Friend"
(1865), by Charles Dickens, the lock at Plashwater Mill is based here. In
"The
Wars of the Worlds"
(1898), by HG Wells, one of the main battles is fought between Weybridge and
Shepperton Lock.
The road soon
passes
Pharaoh's Island.
It was given to Lord Nelson after the
Battle of the Nile
(1789) and he used it as a fishing retreat. Today the
island
only reachable by boat and many of the properties still have Egyptian names. In
January 2011, a small dinghy ferrying people from the island capsized with the
loss of two lives. The fatalities were named as university professor Dr Rex
Walford OBE and record producer Keith Lowde. You
can read the
BBC News
website report on the tragedy.
Along this
stretch there are many desirable properties on both banks of the river. Those on
the opposite side form part of the Hamm Court Estate and were built on what was
the old Manor of Hamm Court. The road by now is one way (in the opposite
direction) and within half a mile becomes
As the road
turns right go straight on along the towpath which is now enclosed between the
river and farmland (also a flood plain).
There is the
odd dwelling set back from the river on the right and some isolated houseboats
moored on to the left. Across the river, for the next mile, are
Chertsey Meads,
a 175-acre site of open grassland with wildlife habitats, walks and picnic
areas.
Eventually the
path passes through a kissing gate and into a large open field called Dumpsey
Meadow. A short footpath off to the right leads to
Dumpsey Meadow
covers 24 acres (see
information board), is classified as a
"Site of Special Scientific Interest"
and is open to the public. It is a haven for wildlife, usually has cattle
grazing on it and in summer is awash with yellow ragwort. On the approach to
At 9.1 miles
the route passes under
Chertsey Bridge,
a
sign
shows the way. The first bridge built here was in 1410 and was maintained by
Chertsey Abbey. The current bridge was built between 1780 and 1782 by James
Paine and is certainly one of the most tasteful on the river. The bridge is a
stone's throw from the well-preserved lock, a pub on both sides, a riverside
campsite and large open pastures to explore next to the river.
Across the
river in Chertsey Town a curfew bell
in the church commemorates
Blanche Heriot
who, in 1471 and at the time of the
Wars of the Roses,
knowing her lover was to be executed at curfew, climbed the church tower and
hung on to the clapper of the bell until he was reprieved, but she died through
her actions.
Her courage
inspired the ballad 'Curfew
Must Not Ring Tonight' by
the American poet Rose Hardwick Thorpe. The
poem is set during a
later date, the 17th Century during the time of the English Civil War
and Cromwell. A
memorial
to Blanche has been built on the Chertsey side of the bridge.
Alongside
Windsor Street in Chertsey is the site of an old abbey (Chertsey
Abbey). This Benedictine monastery was in Saxon Times as important as
Parts of the
Chertsey Abbey, including walls, moat, Abbey River, fish ponds and
"Abbeyfields"
still survive. These are now classified as a
Scheduled Monument. The famous Chertsey Curfew bell, (cast around 1310 and
recast following damage in 1374) was saved from the Abbey and now rings as
number 5 bell in
St.
Peter's Church in the town
Chertsey Museum
in the centre of the town is a fine Regency house and has many interesting
displays including some of the 13th Century Abbey Tiles
-
others are
on display at the British Museum. They are described by some as the most famous
tiles in
Just before
By Chertsey
Bridge, there is another
Coal Tax Post
- this is one of the usual white metal posts. There is another one a little
further on, as you'll see below, and a third one on the right of the road,
shortly before the gates to the Angling Club
Continue
straight on under the bridge and along the footpath on the left-hand side of the
road and next to the river.
Next to the
bridge is the
Kingfisher Pub,
and just past it are two adjoining white houses. The top window between the two
is painted, on the inside, with the bridge and two young lovers walking along
the river on a fine summer's day. I found out from the lady of the house that
the glass painting was
done by her daughter. In the garden of the second house (No 242) is a well
preserved "coal post"
and in front of the other is what may also be a different type of coal post. All
are classified as Grade 2 listed for their historical importance.
Across the
river next to the bridge is
The Bridge Pub & Hotel
and just upstream from it is the
Chertsey Campsite.
On approaching
Chertsey Lock,
it is plain to see some recent work has been done shoring up the island. This
was carried out by the Environment Agency who is responsible for maintaining the
locks.
After passing
the lock the route soon passes
under the
M3 road bridge
over the Thames. There is a constant hum of the traffic from above, but from the
tranquility of the riverside it seems a long way away.
Around and
beyond the motorway bridge is an area of gravel pits and reservoirs. Most of the
pits have filled with water and some are used as fishing and boating lakes.
There are parks, recreational areas popular for barbeques and picnics, riverside
beaches for paddling and swimming, a solitary boathouse, two ice-cream vans,
gaps in riverbank for anglers to test their skills, car-parks to rest vehicles
and 15 sleeping policemen to slow down the traffic along the narrow road. It is
about a mile and a half from
In January
2003, because of heavy rainfall, the
Soon to the
right is a large car park with public toilets, an ice-cream van and a child's
play area. The grassy area around it is
The park was
originally part of the gardens of
Laleham Abbey
(earlier known as Laleham House). The Abbey is set back from the river and
shortly after passing the campsite is visible from the route. It has been
converted to flats, but was once home of the Earls of Lucan, a title associated
with misfortune. The Lucan Family moved to Laleham in 1803, the
third earl
giving the disastrous order to the
Light Brigade
to attack at Balaclava on 25th October 1854, and the
seventh earl
still missing after a murder in 1974.
After passing
Burway Rowing Club
is a second and smaller riverside car park. It also has an ice-cream van, a
barbeque area and small beachy areas next to the river. At the back of the car
park at the base of a tree and always surrounded by flowers is a metal plaque on
a tiny concrete base. The inscription remembers Tony Kembery, known as 'Kim' to
his loved ones.
Soon the road
turns right and away from the river towards
Many other
famous people lived in Laleham, including actress
Gabrielle Anwar
(born here 4th February 1970), and
Edward VII,
when he was Prince of Wales, was a regular visitor at the
Three Horseshoes
public house when he stayed with the Lucan Family at Laleham House.
The route past
Laleham stays on the towpath, and because of this many of the interesting
features of Laleham Village are missed. For a historic walk around the
village just follow
the link.
You can also read about Laleham at
British
History Online and its entry in the
Domesday Book.
On reaching
Laleham the road turns right towards the centre of the village (now at 10.4
miles). DO NOT turn right with the road, instead follow the towpath straight on
along the narrow river road to
Penton Hook Lock,
at 11.2 miles. Go straight past the lock staying next to the river.
A short
distance before Penton Hook Lock the towpath
crosses an outlet
from the Thames. By looking at the bank of the river you should see the
sluice gates.
Each day something like 200 million gallons of water are fed through here, then
east along a channel for half a mile and there pumped uphill into the huge
Queen Mary Reservoir.
At Penton Hook the main river doubles back on itself around Penton Hook Island. The lock, when built in 1815, created the island and shortened the journey for boats along the Thames by two-thirds of a mile. The island itself is accessed by crossing the lock and then two weirs. It is uninhabited and has many wooded paths with benches and picnic tables, lots of places to fish, and at the opposite side has an area to paddle which overlooks the outlet of the Abbey River and Penton Hook Marina, the largest inland marina in the UK.
Pleasant
houses, flats and riverboats line the river to
Shortly after
passing a grassy open area
and then following the towpath as it turns right, and at 11.8 miles into the
stage, across the river is
Truss's Island.
This is joined to the Surrey bank by a small bridge and remembers the City of
To our right
at 12.6 miles is
St Peters Church,
finished in 1895 by architect
George Fellowes Prynne.
The
Lych Gate
opens onto the towpath.
Sir Edward Clarke
(1841 - 1931) was a Conservative politician and a barrister. He served as
Solicitor-General (1886 - 1892). In 1895 he famously represented
Oscar Wilde
in Wilde's disastrous prosecution of the Marquess of Queensbury for libel. After
the trial Wilde was arrested and prosecuted for homosexual practises. Clarke
sold his house and its grounds downstream to K S Ranjitsinhji (1872 - 1933),
Indian cricketer, politician and "Prince" (more about K S Ranji below). He built
himself a large house on the river, next to St Peters. The house still exists
today as The Vicarage.
Sir Edward Clarke and his wife were a huge influence on Staines during the late
19th and early 20th centuries. They were the most
prominent couple here then. They gave a lot to the town and also took much
pleasure in the years they lived in Staines. At
www.Archive.org
you can read Edward's
autobiography
about his early life, as a barrister, a politician and as someone who used his
own money and time to help the community he enjoyed living amongst.
The quote below is from Edward Clarke's autobiography.
"I am speaking of my pleasures at Staines, so it would be affectation to omit one of the greatest. That was the building of St. Peter's Church. When I bought Thorncote, the only place of Church of England worship within a mile of the house was a very uncomfortable iron building, too hot in summer and much too cold in winter, in the Edgell Road. Someone suggested that a church should be built, and a subscription list was opened. Two or three sums of 500 each were promised, but after that only small amounts were talked of, and it was clear there would be much difficulty in raising the required sum. A little higher up the river than Thorncote there was a charming site, where a row of fine elms stood along the river-side of a field which it was proposed to let in building plots. I was afraid these trees would be cut down, so I told my neighbours that if they would buy the site I would build a church upon it. The site was secured, and I employed Mr. George Fellowes Prynne, the son of my dear old friend and supporter at Plymouth, the famous Vicar of St. Peter's there, to design the church..."
K S Ranjitsinhji
was a very successful first-class cricketer; he played for Cambridge University,
Sussex and England. In India he succeeded to Maharaja Jam Sahib of Nawanagar in
1907. With the outbreak of World War I, in August 1914, he declared the
resources of his estate could be used by Britain, including "Jamnagar House" at
Staines. The house was converted to a hospital (The Prince of Wales Hospital for
wounded officers) run by the Red Cross and with a gift of 50,000 pounds to pay for
running costs. As Maharaja he sent several squadrons of the Nawanagar Lancers to
the Western Front.
He became Chancellor of the Indian Chamber of Princes and represented India at
the League of Nations after the war. Later, Ranjitsinhji moved back into his
house at Staines. After the formation of the newly founded Irish Free State in
1922, he became the first head of state to officially visit. He bought the
50,000-acre Ballynahinch estate in Connemara and moved there in 1924. This
helped popularise tourism in the state at a tumultuous time in Irish history. He
died at Jamnagar Palace, India in 1933, aged 60. Ranji is remembered in India by
the
Ranji Trophy,
a national cricket tournament inaugurated in 1934. At Staines his house has been
demolished, but the lodge still remains. Mid-20th century residences
now cover the large grounds it stood in. Jamnagar Close is one such development
built on the site and remembers his time here.
One thing I have always thought strange about St. Peters is the church backs
onto the road and the front proudly overlooks the river, with the
lych-gate
immediately adjacent to the Thames Path. The gate was presented by Sir Edward &
Lady Clarke in 1908 on their Silver Wedding anniversary. It is where the
congregation is supposed to pass through on their way to the church, but I'm
sure most don't come from the direction of the towpath. However, people passing
by in boats and walking can appreciate it more than the cars speeding by on the
Laleham Road.
In the grounds of the church, next to the lych-gate, is a
small memorial garden
remembering those who served in the
Burma Campaign
(1941 - 1945) during World War II.
St. Peters featured in the 1976 movie "The
Omen"
in a scene where Ambassador Thorn tried to kill his son, after being convinced
of the diabolical origins of young Damien.
Houseboat Reach
was the name given in Edwardian Times to a half mile stretch of the Thames, on
the Surrey bank, opposite St Peters and downstream from the railway bridge. It
was lined with luxurious houseboats and many parties went on in the evenings.
Servants were brought in from the posh London homes and entertainers were hired.
Boats were illuminated with lanterns and it was a wonderful sight to behold.
Today, all the large houseboats have gone, there is no path along the river, on
the Surrey side, and the only boats are the small launches moored at the bottoms
of gardens belonging to private houses facing onto the river.
With the coming of the railway to Staines in 1848, the town became a popular
"country"
resort on the river, away from the hustle, bustle and smog of London.
For the less well-off, they would only come here on a day ticket and have to
travel back to their humble homes and drab life in the evenings. For the
better-off they could stay overnight in one of the town's hotels or inns.
However, for the wealthiest, they could buy or rent a large houseboat on
"Houseboat Reach"
and entertain guests and have them to stay.
After we continue along the towpath we pass the small
Jubilee Memorial Gardens,
opened in June 1897 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria. The
stone base of the cast iron lamp post is inscribed:
"This ground was purchased out of public subscriptions raised by the Staines Committee for the Commemoration of the Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. June 1897"
You can also take a break here by having a seat in one of the old benches. Most
are really well preserved and have lasted the effects of time. They were all
made in Johnson & Sharp Foundry which was situated next to the Blue Anchor Inn,
on the corner of the High Street and Thames Street.
In 1977 another memorial
"The Jubilee Stone"
was erected in the High Street to
commemorate the Silver Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II
-
I can only suppose the
local towns folks didn't want to make her feel left out.
NOTE: This is the nearest point in this stage to Staines Station (see
Map). I have also
put a link to a map from Staines Pier to Staines Station at the end of this
write-up.
Boatbuilding along the Thames has been a tradition going back to at least the
Prehistoric period. Rafts and dugout canoes from tree trunks were most likely
the earliest forms. A preserved dugout canoe was found at Shepperton in 1812,
and another at Beasley's Ait, Sunbury, in 1966.
Across the River Thames from here, you can see Tims'
Boatyard. As far as I know
the last remaining boatyard in Staines. Tims started in the late 1870s when John
Tims set up a boat building business in Church Street. In 1928 the firm of John
Tims & Son moved to the south bank of the River Thames, just downstream from the
railway bridge. Here they continued to build a variety of boats, hire out
smaller craft and later hired out launches and cruisers by the week, thus
allowing people to journey up the river as far as Lechlade and downstream to
London.
In 2012 we saw the new royal barge, the
Gloriana,
built as a tribute to Queen Elizabeth II for her Diamond Jubilee. Tims, for
years, held the honour of being entrusted to repair and renovate an older royal
barge. The King's State Barge was a huge boat made of English oak and built in
1689 as a gift from William III to Mary II. John Tims is buried at St. Mary's in
Staines. His grave is quite unusual, but very appropriate see
photo.
Staines Railway Bridge
was completed in 1856. It carries the London Waterloo to Reading Line and the
London Waterloo to Chertsey via Hounslow. Staines Station was opened eight years
earlier (1848) on the London Waterloo to Windsor Line. Hence with the coming of
the second line Staines became a junction and for many years the station was
named Staines Junction.
On the riverside face of the railway bridge abutment are three
vertical rollers
attached to the lower part of the buttresses on the towpath. These date from the
early 19th century and were to prevent the towropes of the barges
from fraying and causing damage to the buttresses by wear. They could also be
used as a gentle friction braking system if required. As they are relevant to
local history they are classified as a listed building.
As you can see from photos of the railway bridge, there is a yellow stripe
painted along the top of the bridge. This was added in the 1980s to make it more
visible to swans and stop them from flying into the bridge.
Artist Douglas Elston Myers worked on a ten-year project to paint all 110
bridges over the navigable Thames. He did this between 1996 and 2006. If you
visit his
website
you can see all of these, including the Staines Rail Bridge and Staines Bridge.
After crossing
under the rail bridge the path comes up to the pavement, just before the Thames
Lodge Hotel. Across the road next to the old BUPA building is a white
metal obelisk. This
dates from 1837 and is a "Coal & Wine Tax Pole". This obelisk, like the city
posts also included (qv) marks the point at which the City of London boundaries
began. The inscription on the post reads "14 & 15 VICT Cap 146".
Immediately
after passing under Staines railway bridge and before reaching and next to the
Thames Lodge Hotel,
turn left through a gate and behind the hotel to continue upstream along the
river. The path leads past a riverside car park, then onto the finish at Staines
Pier, next to the London Stone and behind the Staines Town Hall.
For some reason I have always thought the footpath behind the Thames Lodge Hotel
was the Thames Path as it's the first opportunity to get back to the river.
However, there is no direction sign from the road as the official Thames Path
continues along the pavement, past the hotel, and then turns left to re-join the
river.
The two adjoining cottages immediately upstream from the bridge date from the 19th
century and are named 'Hook on' and 'Shoot off'. Here the towpath switched banks
and the process of getting the barges across the river was known as
"Shooting
Off". It involved making the horses gain maximum momentum before casting off the
tow-rope to shoot the barge across the stream. The horses were walked around via
Staines Bridge or taken across by ferry, then re-hitched on the other side.
Coming downstream, the barge crossed using the help of the current.
The Thames Lodge Hotel dates from 17th century (or maybe earlier) and
was originally The Woolpack, named after the wool carrying barges. The cottages
'Hook on' and 'Shoot off' were renovated and incorporated into the hotel. It
changed names to the Packhorse Hotel and later to the Thames Lodge Hotel
-
a bit
posher I suppose. You can see an old photo, dated 1895, of the Packhorse Hotel,
from the river, at
Francis Frith
-
it's not a lot different from today. Follow the links to see photos of the
footpath down the side
of it to the river and the
path behind it.
The Packhorse Hotel does hold a dark secret not known to many. In 1955 two from
the London Underworld booked in. Alfred Charles Ady and Countess Thelma
Madeleine Noad-Johnston (aka Black Maria and Black Orchid) died in a suicide
pact. They were on the run after a Hatton Garden robbery, the other accomplice
had already been caught at the scene of the crime. Before she died, she wrote a
letter to her son. Ady killed her, delivered letters to reception and returned
to the room to kill himself. You can read more at
Google Books.
While walking behind the Thames Lodge Hotel look across the river and you will
see Staines Boat Club. According to their
club website
Staines Boat Club was founded in 1851. Old results from the Henley Regatta show
Staines had prize-winners in 1858 and 1871. We learnt earlier the first Staines
Regatta was in 1850 and the Staines Amateur Regatta is now organised by Staines
Boat Club.
The Thames Path is a long distance
"National
Trail"
opened in 1996. It follows the River Thames for 184 miles, from its source near
Kemble in the Cotswolds to the Thames Barrier in Greenwich. The route of the
National Trail comes along the Thames from the west through Egham, crosses over
Staines Bridge and continues along the northern bank, through Staines and on
towards London.
If you look to your right you'll see a small round building in the eastern side
of the Riverside car park. This is the
Sweeps Ditch Pump House.
Sweeps Ditch was originally an
ancient man-made mill stream which flowed through Staines. In Roman & Medieval
Times it formed the western and northern boundary of Town Island (sometimes
referred to as High Street Island). It was fed by the waters of the River Colne,
but with the High Street redevelopment and the building of the Elmsleigh Centre
in the 1970s the water source was cut. A new water source was provided when
Thames Water installed a pump house here in 1982 and this takes water from the
Thames. The stream no longer goes through the centre of the town, instead it
goes underground in a pipe across Thames Street and South Street, the pipe then
goes in a straight line for 300m along the south side of South Street to feed
the original open channel between the Elmsleigh Shopping Centre car park and the
railway. This heads south to enter the Thames, just below Penton Hook Lock.
Probably, the best places to view the old watercourse is on
Gresham Road or as it
flows south along the east edge of
Staines Park.
To the left of the footpath and immediately past the car park, the
sails canopies
look down over a circular viewing gallery. A series of circular stone terraces
lead down to a planked platform, with a rail next to, and overlooking the River
Thames. Disabled access is provided by a ramp which leads down from the
right-hand side. To the right, and along the edge of the garden area, is a
straight narrow water channel with a circular fountain at either edge (I believe
called the Life-line Fountain). This extends for almost 60 m directly towards
the swan arch at Thames Street.
Soon to your right and just set back from the Thames Path is the red brick
Staines Methodist Church.
On the wall overlooking the Memorial Gardens is a
relief carving of a dove
that symbolises peace in biblical tales.
According to
British History Online
the famous preacher and the founder of the Methodist movement,
John Wesley,
once preached in Staines:
"John Wesley visited Staines in 1771 and preached in a house which had just been fitted up for the purpose. He recorded an enthusiastic reception and according to the Anglican authorities the number of Methodists increased between 1778 and 1810."
The first Methodist chapel at Staines was built in 1854 on the south side
Kingston Road and in the vicinity of the new police station. In 1890 it was
replaced by a larger spired Gothic church on the opposite side of Kingston Road.
The present church, overlooking the Memorial Gardens, was completed in 1987.
Staines also once had a
"Primitive Methodist"
chapel, built in Richmond Road in
1878. This also closed in 1890, but the building has been preserved and is now a
private dwelling.
The
Origami Swans
sculpture by Tom Brown (c2002) is made of folded polished sheets of mirror steel
and depicts a swan and her signets. The swan represents the symbol which appears
on the Borough coat of arms. The steel mirrors reflect the sparkling waters of
the River Thames.
Staines Town Hall
was designed by
John Johnson,
architect and District Surveyor of East Hackney, and was completed in 1880 in a
Flemish Renaissance style with Italian and French motifs. It took nine years to
build and cost a princely sum of 5,000 pounds.
To make way for it the old small spired market-house was pulled down, as
were a number of buildings to the east. This widened the street to form the
Market Square and provided the site for the Memorial Gardens which were
completed in 1897. However, there does seem to be a slight flaw - if you look
closely at the front dial on the clock you will notice two XI, one at 9 and one
at 11.
The reason we have the Town Hall is due to the Rennie Brothers choosing a site
200m upstream from earlier bridges to build the present bridge. It left a
dead-end onto the river at a space where the bottom of old High Street led to
the bridge. Locals complained by building the Town Hall with its back to the
river, Staines had turned its back on the river. We are still lucky to have this
wonderful building as in the early 1970s Staines Urban Borough Council voted by
just one not to knock it down. It was thanks to a campaign by concerned local
residents which tipped the balance. This led to the formation of the
Staines
Town Society, a charity whose purpose is to protect the old buildings and
heritage of the town.
According to Exploring Surrey's Past:
"HER
777
- Site of Staines Town Hall or Market House (Pre 1603 - Post 1712)
Staines Town Hall, or market house, originally stood in the middle of the highway and was afterwards removed to its later site. There in the Autumn of 1603 Sir Walter Raleigh was indicted before Commissioners and Middlesex jury. The current Town Hall was built in 1880/81 to replace a smaller one in a miserable and low thoroughfare known as Blackboy Lane. The original position has been sited to a widening of the High Street. The site of the meeting house lies just south of this part of the High Street. Sometime post 1712, the town hall or market house was moved to Blackboy Lane, which ran from where the present town hall stands south-eastwards to the river. It may be presumed that the present building stands very near to the site of the earlier one. The 1st edition of the OS 25' does not show it by name, but there is an isolated building in the centre of the roadway on the west side where the present Town Hall stands."
Sources claim
Sir Walter Raleigh
was tried here, but this is not correct. It was here he was committed in 1603,
before his trial at Winchester.
Over the years the Town Hall was used for many public events, including boxing
tournaments, the local archaeological group, opera and stage plays. Famous rock
bands who played here during the 1960s and 70s included,
The Who,
The Yarbirds
and The Jaywalkers (with Richie Blackmore). The town hall was used for the court
scene in the 1982 film
Gandhi,
where Judge Bloomfield sentences Ghandi to six years imprisonment for
sedition. It also featured in the 2002 film
Ali G Indahouse
(also see
Wikipedia).
Staines Town Hall was mainly occupied by the local council, under different
names from it opened until 1972, when Staines Urban District Council moved to
new offices at Knowle Green. The local Magistrates Court was based her between
October 1967 and March 1976, when it also moved to new offices at Knowle Green.
The Old Town Hall opened as new Arts Centre in 1993; officially opened on 15
April 1994 by actor and director
Kenneth Branagh.
In 2004 the building became a "Smith & Jones" pub. However, when I went there
a few years ago, it seemed to have been abandoned and signs on the windows
were advertising the leasehold of the building being up for sale.
Both of the red telephone kiosks at the front of the Town Hall, although looking
a bit shabby at present, are grade II listed. The
Old Fire Engine Shed,
at the back right of the hall, was built c1880 and housed Spelthorne's first
museum from 1980 to 2003. You can read more about Staines Town Hall on the
British Listed Buildings
website.
On the side of the Town Hall is a plaque which
remembers "The
Trafalgar Way".
This was the 271 mile route taken "express
by post-chaise" by Lieutenant
John Richards Lapenotiere
between 4th & 6th November 1805. He travelled from
Falmouth to the Admiralty in London, carrying the news of the momentous victory
and the death in action of Vice Admiral Lord Nelson at the
Battle of Trafalgar.
In total he took 37 hours and made 21 stops at coaching inns to change horses;
the 20th of these stops was at the Bush Inn at Staines. The Bush was
behind where the Town Hall no sits and next to the old Staines Bridge.
Ironically, as you can see from the second plaque below,
Lord Nelson
stayed at the Bush Inn (apparently with Lady Hamilton) in July 1801 and just
four years before his death.
Two Swan Arches which mark entrances to the riverside Memorial Gardens - see
photo of the one near
the Town Hall. They
were hand-made from stainless steel by
Anthony & Simon Robinson.
The motifs on the legs were designed by pupils of Kingscroft Junior School, each
depicting images of the town. Both arches have a single swan in flight at the
top - the swan represents the symbol of Staines. Kingscroft Junior School was
amalgamated with Knowle Park Infant School and Shortwood Infant School in
September 2011 to form
Riverbridge Primary School.
The
Dancing Fountains
were erected here in 2006. The centre-piece is a sculpture of five swimmers
mounted on a plinth. It was created by
David Wynne
in 1980, originally as the centre-piece to the Elmsleigh Shopping Centre which
was opened the same year by Queen Elizabeth II. Some locals found the naked
figures in the sculpture distasteful and downright rude. The council decided to
remove it and put it into storage, at one point it came close to being disposed
of. Luckily, this didn't happen and it stayed in storage until it was placed
here as important part of the Memorial Gardens. Apparently, before it was moved
here, the male appendages were reduced - I suppose to keep some residents happy.
Enhancement of the Memorial Gardens along the riverside, between the Town Hall
and the Thames Lodge Hotel, commenced in October 2001 and was completed in
September 2002. This meant decreasing the size of the Riverside Car Park,
increasing the area covered by the gardens and adding many new features. Since
then many new features have also been added.
In 2001, and before additions to the Memorial Gardens, some
archaeological work
was carried out just south-east of the Town Hall, in the Riverside car park and
the Market Square. This unveiled evidence of flood defenses going back through
the years to the 1st century AD when the Romans were first here.
On the river behind The Town Hall sits a
replica of the London
Stone.
The original stone is thought to be a Roman Altar stone and stood in Staines
near this same spot since 1285. It marked the Corporation of City of London's
former limit of jurisdiction on the Thames. They gained these rights in 1197,
during the reign of
Richard I,
and held them until the formation of the
Thames Conservancy
in 1857. This was the highest point at which the tide could be detected (that
pleasure now belongs to Teddington Lock). In the 18th Century the
stone was moved upstream, to what is now Lammas Park, and this in turn was
replaced by the replica in 1986. In 2003 I found the original London Stone
sitting unprotected under some scaffolding in what seemed to be an abandoned
Town Hall. In 2012 the replica was moved back down river to where it is now,
between the Town Hall and the Town Pier, and near to its original site. You can
now see the original stone in Spelthorne Museum, behind the library on Thames
Street. According to the display at the museum:
"...The London Stone is actually a stack of six layers of stones, of varying
dates. The topmost one was reputed to be a Roman altar stone, although its
actual origin is unknown. On the top part are the words "God preserve ye City of
London AD 1285".
The local
museum has recently been re-housed behind Staines library in Elmsleigh Road.
Spelthorne Museum
has a lot of information about the history of the borough and displays include
Prehistoric Spelthorne, Roman Staines, Brewing & Bottling, Staines Linoleum
Industry and the original
"London Stone"
is also on display.
Spelthorne Museum first opened in 1980 in the Old Fire Station next to the Town
Hall. Towards the end of 2003, the Old Fire Station was sold as part of the Town
Hall regeneration and the museums contents went into storage. On 30th
July 2005 the museum re-opened in temporary offices. Then on 21st
October 2006, the new professionally designed Spelthorne Museum was opened by
television presenter
Michael Aspel.
It sits overlooking Thames Street with the entrance around the corner in Friends
Walk and through Staines Library. The museum contains the original London Stone,
plus a replica of the reconstructed face of "Shepperton
Woman"
(c3640 - 3100BC), sometimes referred to as the first lady of Britain. There are
many other exhibitions telling the history of the area through the centuries.
These include Prehistoric Spelthorne, Roman Staines, Brewing & Bottling, Fire,
Iron Foundries, and Staines Linoleum Industry.
On the wall of the Library, next to the entrance of the museum is a ceramic
mural of Staines depicting places of interest and historical information about
to the town. It is dated 2002 and was made by pottery students at Staines Adult
Learning Centre.
A poster in the museum explains where many of the names of the local areas
originated from and their links still held from Saxon Times. From my research, I
have added a few extras, plus links to Wikipedia for further reading.
Middlesex
-
The area of Middle Saxons (between the three kingdoms of Essex, Wessex
and Mercia).
Spelthorne:
-
"Speech Thorne", a tree where the elders of the community would meet,
believed to have been in the Ashford Common area.
Ashford:
-
Originally called Exford, a ford across the River Axe (possibly once
known as the River Ex).
Charlton:
-
Derived from the word "Ceredentone", meaning the property of a man called
Ceolred.
Halliford:
-
From the Saxon word Helyaforda, meaning a holy ford, perhaps with a
shrine. Another source claims Halliford (holy ford) got its name from a hermit,
a holy man who lived here in Anglo-Saxon times by the ford, and is said to have
performed miracles.
Laleham:
-
A water meadow with willows, or a river settlement by willow trees.
Littleton:
-
Originally from "Lytleton", meaning just what it says, a small town.
Shepperton:
-
Saxon word is "Scepertone", meaning a settlement of shepherds - Sheep
Walk still exists as a road name.
Staines:
-
From the word "Stana", meaning "stones", perhaps the remains of the Roman
town or road. Alternatively, it may have derived from an ancient stone circle
which is believed to have been where the roundabout is now just
south of Staines bridge - the nine stones or "Negen
Stanes".
Stanwell:
-
From "Stanwelle", a stony well or spring.
Sunbury:
-
From "Sunnanbyrig", meaning the stronghold of a Saxon chief named
Sunna.
Staines has
been an important crossing point on the
Brewing and
the production of
"lino" formed an important part of
North of the
town is
Next to the
town hall is the site of the old market hall, where Sir Walter Raleigh was
committed in 1603 before his trial at
On the
riverbank next to the London Stone and behind the Town Hall is
"Staines
Town Pier" where we finish this stage. It was opened in 2002. This has
steps and stone ramps leading down to a planked mooring area. The pier has been
a really positive addition as it means Staines has now a docking station for
river cruises. From June 18th to August 30th, on Monday,
Tuesdays & Thursdays, French
Brothers provide
boat trips from here to Hampton Court and back. The boats depart the Town Pier
at 10am and return at 5.45pm.
For more information about Staines see the entries at British History Online and at the Domesday Book. On Britain From Above there are many old photos of Staines taken from the air. Also, I have compiled a set of five short walks around Staines with a thorough history of everything passed, you can visit this at Staines History Walks.
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