London Green Belt Way
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Stage 20 - Box Hill & Westhumble Station
to East
Clandon (10.4 miles)
Start: Grid
Reference TQ 16750 51859 Post Code
RH5 6BT
StreetMap
ROUTE
DESCRIPTION
The stage
starts at
Box Hill & Westhumble
Station.
Turn left along the road and follow it for half a mile to Chapel Farm. We turn
left, onto a lane past the chapel ruin, and climb up to join the North Downs Way
(NDW) behind Denbies Vineyard. We follow NDW for 7.8 miles to past West Hanger,
then turn right to go north and downhill to the finish at East Clandon. On the
descent the views of West London and Heathrow Airport to the right, and the town
of Woking in front are impressive. The first 2 miles are uphill, the next 7 are
undulation along the top of the North Downs and the last 1.5 are downhill.
From
Boxhill & Westhumble Station
go out to the Westhumble Street and turn left, soon crossing over the railway.
On the right, just over the railway and at the entrance to Crabtree Lane, is the timber-framed Chapel of Ease. This started life as a barn, was used by railway workers during the 1860s and became a chapel of ease in 1904. It is grade 2 listed . According to Mickleham Church, "In the Surrey volume of The King's England (Hodder & Stoughton) Arthur Mee writes of the Chapel that "George Meredith used to love to send his visitors to see the yews of Druid's Grove in Norbury Park, and at Westhumble is the little weatherboarded chapel where his sister-in-law talked to the navvies on Sunday evenings. This building was once a barn." "There are ruins of a much older chapel up the lane; that older chapel was probably built in about 1200 for the tenant of Merton Priory.""
Immediately
past the chapel is
Leladene Arch
at the entrance to Camilla Drive. It was built by Victor Freeman in memory of
his wife Lela who died soon after he bought Camilla Lacey in 1922, which he then
renamed
Leladene.
The arch has a
blue plaque
which remembers Camilla Cottage. The cottage was built for
Fanny Burney
(1752 -
1840) in 1797. She often visited William Locke at the nearby
From here
Westhumble Street becomes Chapel Lane. The lane climbs as it continues through
the village.
I've always found Westhumble a strange, but pretty village. Apart from the main road through it, all the rest are private roads. Most are lined with very desirable houses and most are to the south of Chapel Lane and west of the railway. There's the pub, the chapel of ease, the station and the ruins of the ancient chapel 250 yards west of the village, but there are no shops. You can't get up in the morning and walk to the village store to get your newspaper, your fresh milk and bread. As you walk along Chapel Lane, just before you exit the village, to the left is Burney Road and just inside the entrance, going off diagonally southeast towards the rail is a narrow road, Alders Lane, another private road, was where the medieval village was built along. It originally went east to cross where the A24 is now and in the direction of the stepping stones. Archaeology research suggests this may have been the original route of the Pilgrims' Way or an even more ancient trackway. However, it now stops before the railway and there is no trace of it left on the other side of the railway.
800 yards after
passing over the railway Chapel Farm is to the right, known so because of the
remains of the old chapel just opposite it. The National Trust
sign
next to chapel ruin states:
"West
Humble Chapel ...
Founded at the end of the twelfth century for the use of the villagers of West
Humble and desecrated some three centuries later, the remains of this ancient
chapel were handed over to the care of the
National Trust
A.D. 1937."
The
chapel
is now a scheduled "Ancient
Monument",
and as you can see from this
short video, you are
allowed to go into the grounds and get up close to it.
Chapel Farm
used to be open to the public offering an animal trail and tractor rides. The
owners have retired and the farmland is now property of the National Trust with
many accessible paths. The farm buildings are still privately owned. The
old barn
next to the road is late C16 to early C17 and is
grade 2 listed
and the pillar on the farm wall with its red post box seems to be a somewhat
later addition.
Immediately after the chapel and opposite the old post box at
Chapel Farm
turn left to follow a tarmac drive (it does say private, but it’s also a public
bridleway) uphill. After 470 yards follow the drive left, ignoring the path
straight on. When the drive turns right, stay straight on. 150 yards later turn
right onto a wide path (North Downs Way). From here the route follows the
North Downs Way
(NDW) for the next 7.75
miles.
These 7.8 miles make up a really beautiful stretch of our route around London and have many relics of the past and present. There are reminders of the iron-age; of ancient drovers moving their livestock cross-country; of wealthy landowners, merchants and statesmen moving from the urban sprawl of London to the country; of success in business and how to look after your workforce and their families; of abandoned defenses left over from two wars; of quarries from the industrial past and of a local businessman who brought Champagne grapes to Surrey. Some of the scenery, the wildlife, the woodlands, the chalk grasslands and the views are unique. There are many reminders of the great storms which battered the countryside, especially of the Great Storm of 1987 - scars which will remain for years to come, but others are now a plus or have been turned to our advantage.
To the left for
the next mile there are great views over
Denbies'
Vineyard
and to
Box Hill,
although at intervals obscured where the path goes through woods. The vines
cover an area of 265 acres, making it the largest in Britain. Nestled in the
middle of the vineyard appears to be a large house, but is in fact the
impressive Denbies'
Visitors Centre. In the background Box Hill towers over the valley below. This
section of the Mole Valley is known as the Dorking Gap and provides a natural
thoroughfare to connect Dorking, by rail and road (A24), to Leatherhead and
beyond to the great sprawl of London.
After
40 yards stay right along a metalled lane (at 1 mile). Follow this lane (NDW)
for 0.9 miles to the western most point of the vineyard, where it is crossed by
a wide gravel track. Turn right, onto this track, finger-posted North Downs Way.
After
200 yards, out onto a concrete land (at 2 miles). Turn left, soon past a metal
barrier and out onto a road. Go straight on past the entrance to Denbies House
to your LHS. Then after another 350 yards past the tall Church of St Barnabas.
The area around
us is called Ranmore Common and the next section along the road (or grass) the
route is flat, even and usually very peaceful.
The
Denbies' Estate in total covers and area
of 627 acres, 200 acres are woodland and there are 10 estate houses. The name
derives from John Denby an early owner of the farm on Ranmore Hill. Denbies Farm
is just a short distance to the right as we join the concrete lane.
The farmhouse
was purchased by William Wakeford who sold the property in 1754 to Jonathan
Tyers. Tyers had made his name by purchasing the lease on
Thomas Cubitt
was born in 1788 in Buxton,
"Mr
Cubitt has done it admirably. He is such an honest, kind, good man. It seems to
me to be like a dream to be here now in our house."
Cubitt's
first introduction to the Surrey Hills was in 1820 when he was commissioned to
build the nearby house at
Polesden Lacey
(now National Trust). He fell in love with the area and 25 years later came back
to buy the neighbouring Denbies Estate. He demolished the house built by Tyers
and on higher ground, to the south, built a grand Italianate mansion, partly in
the design of Osborne and
George Cubitt
had the same mentality as his father in looking after his employees. In 1858 he
built a
school
and a school house on the top of Ranmore Common. The following year he
commissioned
Sir George Gilbert Scott
to build a church. In 1874 an infant's
department was added. He even built a dispensary and once a week brought in
doctors from the surrounding area to attend to the estate's
employees and their families. By this time the estate had expanded greatly and
employed almost 400 workers.
George Cubitt
died in February 1917 and is buried in the graveyard at Ranmore Common.
His son,
Henry Cubitt, 2nd
Baron Ashcombe
inherited the estate. He was unfortunate to lose his three eldest sons in World
War I. There are remembered in a beautiful
chapel
within the church decorated with murals by
Edward Reginald Frampton.
Also, according to the church website:
"A
bronze plaque of the wall of the nave commemorates the fourteen men who "went
forth from this parish at the call of duty and fell in the Great War". This
included the three sons of Lord Ashcombe and footmen and a gardener and a game
keeper from the Denbies Estate. Please down-load the leaflet for more details,
The Names are read every year on Remembrance Sunday"
You can
download the leaflet at the
LINK.
Denbies
remained in the ownership of the Cubitt family until World Way II, when it was
taken over by the military and used as the headquarters of the Home Guard. In
1953 the mansion was demolished by
Roland, 3rd Baron
Ashcombe
as it had deteriorated and was proving too expensive restore and maintain.
Roland's
granddaughter,
Camilla,
married Prince Charles at
In 1984 the
estate was bought by local businessman and engineer, Adrian White. He set about
restoring all the properties on the estate and looked for ways to put the land
to good use. It was another Dorking resident, Richard Selley, Professor of
Geology at
In 2004
Professor Richard Selley published a book entitled
"The
Winelands of Britain",
obviously using his knowledge of geology to write about one of his favourite
pastimes.
Just past the
entrance to Denbies, is the church commissioned by George Cubitt.
St. Barnabas'
is substantial; it is known as "The
Church on the North Downs Way"
and sits perched high up on the Downs, with its tall spire visible from many
miles away, but with no congregation in sight. In the churchyard is the grave of
Sir Harry Hylton-Foster
(1905 -
1965). He was born in Surrey, educated at Eton and
At its peak,
during the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, the Denbies
Estate employed around 400 people. Many lived in the
Many centuries
before the Romans came to Britain an old track called the
Harrow Way ran along the
top of Ranmore Common. It formed part of an ancient trackway from Avebury (nr.
Stonehenge) to
Today Ranmore Common is a pleasant and peaceful place. It no longer has the feeling of being a vibrant village inhabited by hundreds of residents. Yet perched high on the North Downs it remains popular with ramblers, cyclists, horse riders, scouts and day-trippers in their cars just wanting to get out and enjoy the countryside.
On
reaching a T-junction cross straight over road and veer diagonally right across
the grass on a worn path. Follow NDW sign through a wooden kissing gates onto a
wide grassy path with a fence and a tall hedge to your RHS. After 80 yards turn
right behind houses. Follow NDW for 280 yards, past a bench and across a field
to go through a wooden kissing-gate and into a wood.
The field,
crossed by the North Downs Way, mentioned above is named
Steers Field, after Chris Steer, one
of the three founding members of the Long
Distance Walkers Association (LDWA). Steer, Alan and Barbara Blatchford
formed the association in 1972 and since then it has grown dramatically with
many local groups through the country.
Steers Field
has a picnic area with great
views
over Dorking, and north of this and a short distance along the road to the right
from the T-junction is a parking area which in spring and summer months also has
an ice-cream van. The
National Trust
has created a
Denbies Hillside Nature Walk
which is two miles long and starts and finishes at the car park.
Just a half of
a mile to the north of the car park, and reached by a footpath, is the Tanner's
Hatch Youth Hostel which I will refer back to later in the route.
After Steers
Field the route continues along the top of the southern escarpment of the
The
path is easy to follow through the trees for the next 1.4 miles. Just stay
straight on avoiding other paths going off to the left and right. If in doubt it
is signed North Downs Way, by fingerposts and acorns, at all junctions.
Although I say
follow through the trees, at times the trees do open up to the left giving great
views to the south. Also, over the next few miles watch out for old pillboxes,
and other structures left over from World War II. A short video at
YouTube cover the walk
across Steers Field and the next 1.4 miles through the woods to the wooden gate
mentioned below.
At 4.2
miles go through a wooden gate (next to a metal gate). Bear right past White
Down Nation Trust sign to your LHS. After another 470 yards go through a wooden
kissing gate and straight on.
The reason for the last two kissing gates is that the fields below the North Downs Way have cattle grazing in them at various times of the year, signs on the gates say this. I don't think the National Trust would enjoy searching for them in the woods. However, as there not much grass on the path, they tend to stay in the fields.
The
path continues through woods for another 600 yards, then veers right and down to
a road (White Down Lane). Turn right along road and after just a few yards go
left onto a path.
The
path climbs and veers left along follows an old
sunken track.
After 50 yards stay straight on past a path going off to the right. Then follow the
path as it turns left, then right and on through the woods.
After
175 yards go through wooden kissing gate, on right of a metal gate and straight
on through
White Down Lease
(National Trust) (at 5 miles).
After
0.53 miles go through a kissing-gate across a bridleway (Hackhurst Lane) then
through another kissing gate and onto
Blatchford Down
(named after Alan & Barbara Blatchford the other founder of the Long
Distance Walkers Association).
After another 50 yards stay straight on past a left fork.
The path passes
a strange looking object to your LHS. This is a
rainwater collector.
It is used to feed a cattle trough just a short distance below.
Before we pass
through the first kissing gate, to our LHS is a National Trust sign stating
Blatchford Down. There is also an information board about Blatchford Down and
the World War II pillboxes. Thus, it appears the open areas, both sides are
Blatchford Down.
Alan Blatchford
and Chris Steer met by chance in the early 1970s. They both loved walking in the
Surrey Hills. Alan was involved in the Tanners Marathon from its inception in
1960, a long walk from the
Tanners Hatch Youth Hostel
on Ranmore Common. The walk was popular and by 1972 they decided to form the
Long Distance Walkers
Association
(LDWA). Their idea was to collate information on all long distance walks in the
Unfortunately,
Alan Blatchford died suddenly in 1980 at his home in
After
320 yards, enter woods and through kissing gate to exit Blatchford Down. Then
follow main path for 450 yards to cross a wide track / public byway (Beggars
Lane, at 6 miles) and straight on finger-posted North Downs Way.
The area around
here is Hackhurst Down, though on OS Maps Blackford Down seems to be part of the
Hackhurst Downs. There are no National Trust or Woodland Trust signs, by the
path, to say you have entered Hackhurst Down as far as I could see, but maybe I
missed them.
In the past two
miles we have passed three or four pillboxes next to the path. There are a few
others in the fields below and the woods above. These were to be a line of
defense to stop German Panzer Divisions in case of invasion. However, I don't
believe a few red bricks and rifles would have made any difference. Maybe,
building them did give locals and troops on the ground a sense of security.
Anyway, Thank God they weren't
needed.
After
300 yards stay straight on past
a kissing gate to LHS. 90 yards later go left at
T-junction of paths, then after another 70 yards stay left, along a wide track /
bridleway.
The wide track
we have just joined is named Drove Road and on maps it is marked as
"trackway"
indicating an ancient road, possibly The Pilgrim's
Way. It gets its name from drovers who used to walk their sheep along it and
feeling safer on high ground than in the valley below. As like many tracks here,
it was widened during World War by the Canadian Soldiers, who were based here,
for military purposes. You can read a leaflet about the area, its history and
its wildlife at
Surrey Wildlife Trust.
Be careful for the next 1.25 miles as many wide tracks cross our route and we
don't
always follow the most obvious track. However, it is marked.
After 500 yards stay straight on past crossing track. There is a North Downs Way sign on the LHS.
This junction
is named
Gravelhill Gate
on maps and there are more tracks going off our route. The main crossing track
is bridleway named Colekitchen Lane and this leads downs to the village of
Gomshall.
To the right of
the track, is a circular concrete structure. It's
an
old reservoir
built by Canadian soldiers during World War II to provide them with water.
The A25 road
runs almost parallel to our route at the bottom on the North Downs for most of
the way from Otford to West Hanger. At this point it is less than a mile away
and some of the picturesque villages along it can be reached by following tracks
such as
Abinger Hammer
was once a centre of the Surrey iron industry, deriving its name from the
ancient hammer pots. The River Tillingbourne flows through the village and forms
a number of "hammer
ponds"
which were once used to power the forges and are now watercress beds. A
striking clock
overlooking the A25, with a smith at his anvil striking a bell, remembers the
iron industry and has the caption
"By
me you know how fast to go".
A mile south east of here at
Abinger
Common
is where a "Mesolithic Pit
Dwelling",
dating back about 7,000 years was discovered in the 1950s. It is classified as a
Scheduled Monument and is believed to be one of the oldest settlement in the
England.
Follow
the main track straight on for 0.85 miles to a metal barrier. Go past and
straight over a wide crossing track (at 7 miles).
Be careful
crossing as the crossing track is London Lane, a public byway. It goes steep
downhill to the village of Shere and is popular with mountain bikers and
off-road vehicles.
A few yards
later, on our route, an obstacle does stop motorised
vehicles from following us. Be grateful as when I once ran the Ridgway
overnight, at one point, at 2 am, I did have to jump into a hedge to stop being
run over by a tank.
Stay on for 400 yards, then past a metal gate and straight on past a farm (Hollister Farm).
At junction of tracks follow the lane as it turns right (now going north).
After
75 yards go straight on past track to LHS. Then in another 160 yards at fork,
stay right signed North Downs Way (still going north).
Out
onto road, after 225 yards, turn right. Then after just 25 yards turn sharp left
onto bridleway through
the trees, signed North Downs Way.
On the right
next to the bridleway looks like a huge
concrete bowl
in the ground. This of one of many
relics
in the area left over from the latter stages of World War II, when thousands of
troops from the Canadian Army were camped along the Surrey section of the North
Downs, in the run up to the Normandy landings of June 1944. The officers and
their staff didn't
camp, the commandeered most of the largest house in the area.
After
190 yards cross straight over a road (Staple Lane) and into the car park at
West Hanger.
Below West
Hanger car park are the pretty villages of Shere and Albury on the River Tillingbourne.
The
Shere
is probably the most beautiful in Surrey and one of the best in the
On
Time Travel Britain
you can read more on the history of Shere and Gomshall as written by Jean E.
Bellamy.
Immediately
west of Shere is
West Hanger
is part of
Shere Woodlands,
a designated nature reserve which comprises of Coombe Bottom, Netley Plantation
and West Hanger. The area around the car park at West Hanger is popular for
picnics, and with wildlife enthusiasts. Close by there is a nature trail, some
Neolithic flint quarries, and many remnants left over from the Canadian Army who
had a large presence here before the Normandy Invasion in the Second World War.
It's
also a good place to start a walk from. Silent Pool, Newlands Corner, St
Martha's Hill are just some of the many places close by.
Go straight on through the car park and continue to follow the North Downs Way
west
for
0.55 miles, ignoring any other paths. Then at a
crossroads of paths,
turn right, signed Public Footpath.
The path, to
the left, at the crossroads leads south and steeply downhill through trees.
After 500 yards it passes Silent Pool.
This is the higher of two ponds in the area and is formed by a nearby natural
spring. Silent Pool is a very tranquil place, surrounded by trees and with
crystal clear blue-green water which has been filtered by the chalk. It became a
popular place to visit during Victorian times and there are many stories. Some
believe the pond to be haunted and some believe it is a holy place. The ghost
mentioned in most stories is that of a young and beautiful peasant girl named
Emma. She was the daughter of a woodcutter. Apparently, Emma was bathing here
when approached by some riders on horseback. The girl took fright and, unable to
get to her clothes, moved deeper into the water to cover up her naked body. But
when one of the horsemen came too close for comfort she started screaming and
retreated even further into the pond. Her brother was close by and could hear
her screams. He rushed to his sister's
aid, but by now she had got out of her depth. Whilst trying to rescue her they
both slipped under the water and drowned. Their bodies were found a few days
later by their father. The story goes on to say the horseman who frightened the
young Emma was none other than Prince John, Regent of England and who later was
crowned
King John.
There is a longer version of the story at
Visit Surrey
and a third version on
Wikipedia.
The lower pool is Sherbourne Pond, named after the adjacent farm, and was dug in
1662 to provide water for the nearby
Because of the popularity of this place with visitors, there is a public car
park, a viewing platform overlooking
Silent Pool
and a walk encircles it. There is even a local
distillery
and
vineyard.
We have now left the North Downs Way and joined The Fox Way. The Fox Way is
marked by yellow disc with fox head, crown and route name. We follow The Fox Way
for 0.6 miles to The Tillingbourne Brewery at Old Scotland Farm.
It's at this point our route leaves the
After
500 yards miles
go straight on past New Scotland Farm to your RHS
(at 9 miles), and then with
fields
to your RHS and woods to LHS.
This area of the
Follow the wide track.
After 300 yards
it veers slightly right and soon through Old Scotland
Farm. Just after passing the farm buildings, and where the road veers right,
turn left onto a path going directly north through woods (DO NOT follow the path
going
left, signed the Fox Way).
Old Scotland Farm was home to the
Surrey Hills Brewery
which started production in May 2005. Their beers have won many awards and most
have local names such as,
"Ranmore
Ale",
"Shere
Drop"
and
"Albury
Ruby".
In 2011 it was sold and started production of beers again as the
Tillingbourne Brewery.
The brewery has a gift shop.
The path emerges from the woods
into a field. Go straight on
downhill across field - still going north.
As you cross the field there are great views over Surrey, Woking, West London
and you should be able to see the planes taking off and landing at Heathrow
Airport in the distance.
After another 560 yards follow the path out of field and turn left along a road
(Staple Lane).
Just away to our right, at this point is High Clandon Estate Vineyard. It was founded in 2004 and is accessed from the A246 just east of East Clandon. This is just one of so many vineyards that has opened in the British Isles in recent years. Probably, thanks to the effects of global warming enabling the growing of good quality grapes further north. So far on this stage we've had a distillery, a brewery and three vineyards. That's all within just a few of miles.
Staple Lane descends
and after 950 yards
meets
the busy A246 (Epsom Road). Turn left on a narrow
path along the grass verge for 100 yards to just after a bus stop. You will see
a crossing place where you can cross the dual carriageway in two parts. Cross
with extreme care and go straight on through the hedgerow and out onto a quiet
road (Old Epsom Road).
The busy dual-carriageway we have just crossed has
only been closed once,
as far as I know, in recent years. That was for 2 days in late July 2012, during
the London Olympics. The cycle road races came along here and turned right to
climb up Staple Lane to West Hanger and then descend to Shere, before going on
to do the circuits of Box Hill and Headley Heath. As you can see from these two
short videos, on Staple Lane, the
men got great weather
and the girls didn't.
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